Although our Ciceroni were much fatigued with their excursion, we could not forbear visiting the Tarpeian Rock, and the Pantheon. On our return, as it was too late for Francis’s table d’hôte, we dined at a trattorias, where a variety of dishes are kept ready cooked, or ready for cooking at a moment’s notice. They have also a great variety of good wines, and amongst the rest, we here tasted the Orvieto, so justly extolled as a delicious beverage, and which reminded me forcibly of good bottled Devonshire cider.
During my residence at Rome, I generally preferred dining at one of these houses, as possessing some advantages over the table d’hôte; strangers find here a great facility in acquiring the language, as the conversation is carried on almost exclusively in the Italian tongue; while, at the same time, an Englishman is sure to meet with numbers of his countrymen. The present was the season of Lent, when Rome is generally thought to be badly supplied with provisions; I was not, however, conscious of any deficiency, except in the article of lamb, which is forbidden to be sold or made use of during this season; but they contrive to have young kid as a substitute, and which is made use of in great abundance. I am told that different houses of entertainment pay the pope for a licence to serve heretics, during the season of Lent, with forbidden viands.
On the following day, being Thursday, I visited the Vatican for the first time: this museum is open for public inspection every Thursday and Sunday, but it is possible to gain admittance on any other day, and also to see it in the evening by torch-light, although by a late regulation, the nocturnal parties are restricted to twelve persons at a time, as many as can see the rooms with advantage.
My feelings on entering the museum of the finest sculpture in the world, were not of that rapturous nature, which I hear every amateur of this beautiful and interesting art, or even a common observer, express. No! it was not with me as with others, who, on entering the room, are struck by a collection of the finest statues bursting on their view, not knowing what first, or most to admire, being for a time lost in the confusion of delightful variety, and viewing them collectively, before they can fix their attention on any single object; how different were my feelings! for when it was announced that I was in the midst of these exquisite works of art, although my imagination was raised to the highest pitch, and well adapted to supply the deficiency of visual organs, it could but faintly convey to my mind, the impressions which an ocular inspection, as above described, must have excited. This coup d’œil, with me, was not only wanting, but I had to walk up to each statue in rotation, and listen to a tame description of its beauties. I was even not allowed the advantage of examining by the touch, as soldiers were placed in each apartment, to prevent such violation: had I been freely permitted this kind of examination, I doubt not, that I might have been as highly gratified as those who saw, for the sense of touch conveys to my mind as clear, or at least as satisfactory, ideas of the form, and I think I may add, the force of expression, as sight does to others. I did occasionally examine them in this way by stealth, when I was apprised that the soldiers’ backs were turned towards me.
After leaving the Vatican, I walked with a friend in the gardens of the Villa Medici, where we met the Cardinal Pacca, to whom I had the honour of being introduced, and who behaved in the most polite and affable manner, conversing with me for some time in French.
On Saturday, the 12th of April, a criminal was guillotined in the Piazza del Popolo, for committing various robberies and murders, notwithstanding, he was only twenty-three years of age. Criminals are not here arraigned before their judge and accusers, but the charge is examined, and the sentence awarded in private; nor is the convict acquainted with the nature of his sentence, if the punishment of death is decreed, until the middle of the night before execution, when a priest gives the information, and urges him to confession, in which case, the sentence is carried into effect at nine o’clock in the morning; otherwise, if he refuses to confess, it is deferred until three in the afternoon.
In the middle of the night, of the 11th and 12th of April, a fire broke out in the house where one of my particular friends, Mr. H⸺, resided, and which compelled him to remove Mrs. H⸺, his family, and valuable effects, in the first instance, into the middle of the street, and afterwards to the residence of a friend. The accident originated in the apartment of an Italian lawyer, who resided on the floor above Mr. H⸺, and, in consequence of a drunken servant dropping a candle on his straw mattress; the whole room was soon in flames, which burst out from the windows, and made a most frightful appearance, but were at length extinguished by throwing in buckets of water, and without communicating beyond the room in which they commenced. Perhaps I ought rather to say, they extinguished themselves for want of more fuel, having lasted until the few contents of the room were consumed, being prevented from extending, in consequence of the stone floors and staircase, and the thickly plastered walls. The engines were brought, and immense crowds of people assembled, evidently for amusement, for although Mr. H⸺ exerted himself to the utmost to extinguish the flames, he could not induce the by-standers to give the least assistance. In the morning, his family returned to their apartments, without having sustained any other injury than the fright.
On Sunday I attended divine service, at the English place of worship, which was a large room in the house of Mrs. L⸺. After this I visited the Capitol, where I met with no one to prevent my touching the statues, &c. In the evening, we had some delightful music and singing in the Chiesa Nuova, the operatic character of which, however, impressed me more with the idea of a theatre, than a church. After this we concluded the day at Dr. C⸺’s.
We had now several rainy days, which prevented my getting out as usual. On Thursday the 12th, I again visited the Vatican, with increased pleasure, as I was enabled to recognise many of the statues as old acquaintances. On the following day, Mr. C⸺ and myself visited the churches of St. Pietro in Vinculis; Sta. Maria Maggiore; St. Martin; and the chapel of Remus.
We afterward explored the baths of Titus, the Forum, and the Coliseum. At the latter, we remained some time examining the Arena; we ascended the long staircases; traversed the encircling corridors; looked into the baker’s oven; and carried off, as sacred relics, a small piece of brick pavement, and one of the many wild plants, which grew upon the walls. During this research, a monk, attended by a number of followers, entered the Amphitheatre, took his station near the centre, and treated us with an exhibition of very correspondent character, to what had so frequently been displayed on this spot, during the periods of the glory of Rome. He paced backwards and forwards upon the space of a few yards, ranting most violently, and accompanying his voice with such gesticulations and actions, that he might, by a slight effort of imagination, have been readily mistaken for a wild beast displaying on the Arena. I am almost ashamed to acknowledge, that a ludicrous comparison of former, with present times, suggested itself to our minds while he was detailing to an admiring and approving audience, in this roaring manner, the virtues of the blessed Virgin, and asserting her claims to be worshipped in preference to our Saviour himself, and every other power in heaven or on earth, above or below; the only cool spectators besides ourselves, were three German artists, who, however, paid a greater compliment to the orator than we did, for although they continued their sketches of the building, they took off their hats out of respect for the religion of the country.