“While we were gazing upon it, suddenly a bell chimed. On the cross, at the top, waved a brilliant light, as if wielded by some celestial hand, and instantly ten thousand globes, and stars of vivid fire, seemed to roll spontaneously along the building, as if by magic; and self-kindled, it blazed in a moment into one dazzling flood of glory. Fancy herself, in her most sportive mood, could scarcely have conceived so wonderful a spectacle, as the instantaneous illumination of this magnificent fabric. The agents by whom it was effected were unseen, and it seemed to be the work of enchantment. In the first instance, the illuminations had appeared to be complete, and one could not dream, that thousands, and tens of thousands of lamps were still to be illuminated. Their vivid blazes harmonized beautifully with the softer, milder light of the lanternoni.
“The brilliant glow of the whole illumination shed a rosy light upon the fountains, whose silver fall, and ever-playing showers, accorded well with the magic of the scene. Viewed from the Trinita de’ Monti, its effect was unspeakably beautiful. It seemed to be an enchanted palace, hung in air, and called up by the wand of some invisible spirit.
“We did not, however, drive to the Trinita de’ Monti, till after the exhibition of the girandola, or great fireworks, from the castle of St. Angelo, which commences by a tremendous explosion, that represented the raging eruption of a volcano. Red sheets of fire seemed to blaze upwards into the glowing heavens, and then to pour down their liquid stream upon the earth. This was followed by an incessant, and complicated display of every varied device that imagination could figure,—one changing into another, and the beauty of the first, effaced by that of the last. Hundreds of immense wheels turned round with a velocity that almost seemed as if demons were whirling them, letting fall thousands of hissing dragons, and scorpions, and fiery snakes, whose long convolutions, darting forward as far as the eye could reach in every direction, at length vanished into air. Fountains, and jets of fire, threw up their blazing cascades into the skies.
“The whole vault of heaven shone with the vivid fires, and seemed to receive into itself innumerable stars and suns, which shooting up into it, in brightness almost insufferable,—vanished—like earth-born hopes. The reflection in the depth of the calm clear water of the Tiber, was scarcely less beautiful than the spectacle itself, and the whole ended in a tremendous burst of fire, which, while it lasted, almost seemed to threaten conflagration to the world.
“The expense of the illumination of St. Peter’s, and of the girandola, when repeated two successive evenings, as they invariably are at the festival of St. Peter, is one thousand crowns; when only exhibited one night, they cost seven hundred. Eighty men were employed in the instantaneous illuminations of the lamps, which to us seemed the work of enchantment. They were so posted as to be unseen.”
The conclusion of these ceremonies impresses one forcibly, with the same feelings as the termination of a theatrical performance, when the green curtain descends, and conceals from view the various actors of the drama, all as yet retaining their appropriate situations, and ready to recommence the exhibition, when the appointed period again comes round; while the spectators hasten away to their respective homes carrying with them vivid ideas of the pageantry with which they have been amused: thus was it with Rome, which, like a vast amphitheatre, now began to pour forth in all directions, the crowds of visitors, whom this scene of pleasure, or sentiments of devotion, had attracted.
It was not a little interesting to contrast these religious spectacles of modern, with the gigantic and martial amusements of ancient Rome; nor is it possible to receive otherwise than a melancholy impression, of the comparative littleness of the former, as well as the mistaken policy, which has perverted the pure simplicity of a religion, primitively plain and unadorned as that of Christianity, into the ground-work, and vehicle, of affected ceremonial and gorgeous pageantry, for the purpose of enslaving the human mind. Nor, after all, does any part of this imposing scene strongly affect the imagination, so as to realize the ideal expectation of its participators, except indeed the all powerful and sublime misereres; the illumination of St. Peter’s; and the fireworks of St. Angelo. These, indeed, work upon the mind with magic charms, and transport it into a fairy world, beyond the limits of mortality.
I had a great desire to ascend to the summit of St. Peter’s, notwithstanding a prohibition had lately been issued against persons going up to the cross, on account, it was said, of a young English midshipman having ascended late one evening, and attached privately to it an union Jack, which he had carried in his pocket; so that next morning the British flag was seen flying over the once mighty city of Rome. I should rather however imagine, that the prohibition arose from fear of accidents.
On leaving the church, we ascended a broad staircase formed of stone steps, so easy of ascent, that you might have rode up or down with perfect safety, which led to the upper part of the body of the church, whence its dome springs, and where you are astonished by the vast extent of the roof, with ranges of small houses and workshops upon it. Stone seats are also placed for the accommodation of visitors, from whence may be seen the cupolas of the side chapels, which are invisible from below. I determined, however, to proceed into the ball, which every one is permitted to do.
From this point we ascended the wonderful, and stupendous dome, by a succession of staircases, each terminating in a gallery, from whence a noble view of the city and surrounding country is to be seen.