We did not arrive at the Aqueduct before the evening began to close in, and our driver, in consequence of the risk of banditti, became solicitous for our returning to Naples, now seventeen miles distant. We descended however from our carriage, and walked under one of the arches, followed by a number of beggars and Ciceroni. This wonderful structure consists of three rows of arches, elevated over each other, and filling up an extensive chasm between two approximating mountains, over which it conveys a whole river of the purest water, the channel for which is about four feet wide, and covered over by an excellent road of sufficient breadth to allow carriages of every description to pass.
The lower tier consists of nineteen, the second of twenty-seven, and the upper one of forty-three arches, and the whole built of brick from the designs of Vanvitelli, in magnitude and effect surpassing all similar works of ancient or modern construction. Of the former we may in some measure gain an estimate by drawing a comparison between the present and the famous Roman aqueduct, the Pont de Guard near Nismes, of which I may give the following description.
“It was raised in the Augustan age, by the Roman colony, at Nismes, to convey a stream of water between two mountains, for the use of that city. It stands over the river Gardon, which is a beautiful pastoral stream, roaring among rocks, which form a number of pretty natural cascades, and over-shadowed on each side with trees and shrubs, which greatly add to the rural beauties of the scene. This work consists of three bridges, or tier of arches, one over another; the first of six, the second of eleven, and the third of thirty-six. The height, comprehending the aqueduct at the top, amounts to one hundred and forty-seven feet three inches; and the length between the two mountains which it unites, extends to 723 feet. The order of the architecture is the Tuscan, but the symmetry of it is inconceivable.”
Thus it will be seen that the Ponte di Madeloni loses nothing in comparison, as respects its height, and length, and number of arches, in all of which points it exceeds the Pont de Guard; as to architectural qualities, I must leave it to better judges to determine, which of the two has the advantage.
My friend C⸺ was so delighted with the beauty and magnificence of this aqueduct, that we could not induce him to leave it, until the obscurity of evening made a longer stay unavailing; when we commenced our return to Naples. On our way we had some reason to think the driver’s fears not altogether groundless, as when within four miles of the city, we were surprised by three fellows making their appearance upon a heath, who followed the carriage for some distance, and kept looking at us as if to reconnoitre our force. One of them even attempted to spring up behind the carriage, but my friend C⸺ calling out loudly in the Italian language, he desisted, and with his companions made off immediately. We certainly acted imprudently in travelling near Naples at so late an hour, for although the city was kept quiet by Austrian troops, it was well known, that numbers of disbanded soldiers, and discontented peasantry, were spread all over the country. We did not arrive at Naples until half after ten o’clock, when I went immediately to my lodgings, leaving my companion to settle the customary dispute of fare with the coachman; and which I understood was not concluded until midnight, and then terminated in our paying a dollar more than had been stipulated for.
CHAP. XIX.
NAPLES.
During my residence in this city I frequently walked on the delightful promenade of the Villa Reale, which happened to be near my lodgings in the Strada Bassiniana, and in the vicinity of Santa Lucia and the Caio, two places, which for strangers, are preferable to any other part of Naples.
In this garden is a bust of Tasso, the features of which the sentinel one day permitted me to examine, when I was much struck with the contour. The traveller will also see here the celebrated group, called Il Toro Farnese, originally brought to Rome from Rhodes, and found in Caracallas baths, from whence it was removed to the Farnese palace. It was supposed to represent Amphion and Zetus, who, by order of their mother Antiope, are binding Dirce to the horns of a wild bull. Apollonius is said to have executed much of this group, which has however been restored in so many parts, that little of the antique work remains, the bull excepted.
On the 15th, the king of Naples, about three o’clock in the afternoon, made his public entry into his capital, after regaining possession of his dominions, under two triumphal arches erected for the purpose, one at the Botanic Garden, a short distance from the city, the other in the middle of the Toledo. The whole way to the palace was lined with Austrian and Neapolitan soldiers, who were ordered to prevent cheering, and it was even said that some lazaroni, who attempted it, were placed in custody.