I did not enter the grotto, my friend having neglected to inform me of our approach to it, although the examination of it was a leading object of my evening’s drive. I should, however, have found no gratification, could I have witnessed the convulsive agonies of one of the unfortunate animals, who are kept for the purpose of demonstrating the properties of the cave, and who, after being immersed until life is nearly extinct, are then returned into a purer atmosphere, to reserve them for repeated exhibition. The exhibitors have a peculiar mode of assisting the recovery in this case; namely, to throw the poor creature into the lake. It is not easy to conceive, under suspension of vitality from such a source, how this is to contribute to its restoration. On our return, one of these dogs, consisting literally of skin and bone, was lying on the ground near the mouth of the cave. I could not but wish, that the numerous persons who visit this simple natural phenomenon, would provide themselves with bread to feed these poor animals, instead of wantonly amusing themselves with so cruel an experiment of its effects.
On approaching the Lake Agnano, my organ of smell became strongly affected, by the sulphurous exhalation proceeding from its surface, and the marshy grounds around it, and which I readily recognised to be sulphuretted hydrogen. I was astonished by the extraordinary croaking of the numerous frogs, which inhabit this lake, far exceeding any thing I had ever heard from the various froggeries of France or Italy. One would have thought that Aaron’s rod had been extended over it; they appeared to be all around, so that I fancied every step I had to take, must have crushed more or less of them to death. There was no habitation near, or the description of Exodus, chap. VIII. verse 3, must have been realized with respect to it.
CHAP. XXI.
MOUNT VESUVIUS.
Notwithstanding the representations made to me on all sides of the difficulties which must attend it, my desire to visit Mount Vesuvius was of so ardent a nature, that I certainly should have made the attempt alone, had not a friend, Mr. M., kindly volunteered to accompany me, but from whom, I have the vanity to say, I rather looked for amusement and information, than guidance and protection.
My friends endeavoured to dissuade me from this arduous undertaking, and when, after fully deciding upon the measure, I inquired in what way it was customary for others to make the ascent, replied, “Oh! they could see their way up.” “Well, then,” I retorted, “I have little doubt of being able to feel mine.” I must acknowledge myself annoyed by having suggestions of difficulties persisted in, which, I feel sensible in my own bosom, do not insuperably exist; nor can I admit any person, not in the same situation with myself, capable of estimating the powers, which, under the curtailment of one sense, another, in consequence, acquires.
We set off from Naples about five o’clock in the afternoon, with a view of seeing the mountain by moonlight; after passing through Portici, we reached Resina about seven o’clock, where we left the carriage to await our return, and reconvey us to Naples. Taking a conductor from the house of Salvatori, whose family are esteemed the most respectable guides of the mountain, we immediately commenced our ascent. A number of asses are constantly in attendance at this point, for the purpose of assisting such as are incapable of walking, or apprehensive of fatigue, and which are able to convey their riders two-thirds of the way towards the summit; but, in order that I might acquire a more correct idea of the nature of the road, we gave the preference to walking.
We proceeded along a fair road, until we arrived at a house about half way to the hermitage, where we rested a short time, and refreshed ourselves with wine and water; after this the road gradually became worse, and at length so bad that if I had not, on former occasions, witnessed the astonishing powers of asses and mules, I should have conceived it impossible for them to have ascended it. We reached the hermitage about half after eight o’clock, and at the suggestion of our guide, recruited ourselves with some of the hermit’s bread and wine; and then began the more arduous part of our journey. The road soon became very soft, being constituted of the light dust which had been thrown out from the crater; interspersed, however, with large and sharp stones, ejected from the same source; some of which were of such immense size, that did we not bear in mind the astonishing powers of elementary fire, we could scarcely credit the possibility of such masses being hurled to this distance, from out of the bowels of the mountain.
One of the greatest inconveniences I found in this ascent, was from the particles of ashes insinuating themselves within my shoes, and which annoyed my feet so much, that I was repeatedly compelled to take them off, in order to get rid of the irritating matter. Hence I would recommend future travellers to ascend in white leathern boots.
At length we reached the only part of the mountain, which was at this time in a burning state, and which was throwing out flames and sulphurous vapour; when the guide taking me by the arm, conducted me over a place where the fire and smoke issued from apertures between the stones we walked upon, and which we could hear crackling under our feet every instant, as if they were going to be separated, and to precipitate us into the bowels of the mountain. The sublime description of Virgil did not fail to occur to my recollection.