“Volcanoes are found in almost all parts of the world, but most commonly in the neighbourhood of the sea; and especially in small islands: for instance, Italy, Sicily, Japan, the Caribbees, the Cape Verd islands, the Canaries, and the Azores: there are also numerous volcanoes in Mexico, and Peru, especially Pichincha, and Cotopaxi. The subterraneous fires, which are constantly kept up in an open volcano, depend, perhaps in general, on sulphurous combinations, and decompositions, like the heating of a heap of wet pyrites, or an union of sulphur and iron filings: but in other cases, they may, perhaps, approach more nearly to the nature of common fires. A mountain of coal has been burning in Siberia for nearly a century, and most probably has undermined, in some degree, the neighbouring country.
“The immediate cause of an eruption appears to be very frequently an admission of water from the sea, or from subterraneous reservoirs; it has often happened that boiling water has frequently been discharged in great quantities from a volcano; and the force of steam, is, perhaps, more adequate to the production of violent explosions, than any other power in nature. The consequence of such an admission of water, into an immense collection of ignited materials, may, in some measure, be understood, from the accidents which occasionally happen in foundries; thus, a whole furnace of melted iron was a few years ago dissipated into the air in Colebrook Dale, by the effects of a flood which suddenly overflowed it. The phenomena of earthquakes and volcanoes are amply illustrated by the particular accounts, transmitted to the Royal Society by Sir William Hamilton, of those which have happened at different times in Italy.”—Polehampton.
Notwithstanding the extraordinary exertions of the preceding night, I arose at nine o’clock on the following morning, without being sensible of any inconvenience, and commenced my preparations for leaving Naples. My friend C⸺ had engaged to accompany me, which promised to be, indeed, an important accession to my comforts and gratifications, as I was sure of not only a warmly attached friend, but a most amusing and intelligent fellow-traveller, from whom I was certain to derive essential advantages, as he was well acquainted with almost every European language. Perhaps few had experienced more vicissitudes of fortune than this gentleman, or been exposed to a greater variety of dangers and adventures, many of which bordered not a little on the romantic.
The following incidents, which are of recent occurrence, appear so interesting, that I cannot deny myself the pleasure of relating them. On returning from South America, in the beginning of the year 1815, he visited Paris; and soon afterwards Bonaparte regained possession of it. One day as he was passing through an encampment near the city, his passport was demanded by the soldiers, when he presented them with an American one; he was immediately accused of being a spy, and taken before the commandant, who debated whether he should be instantly put to death, or sent a prisoner to Paris: the latter plan was, however, adopted. On their way, his escort of infantry were overtaken by a party of intoxicated dragoons, who wanted to take their prisoner from them, and who on being refused, made attempts to effect their purpose by force. They were however disappointed, the infantry placing my friend against a wall, and protecting him from their efforts to cut him down with their sabres; they succeeded at length in conducting him safe to the General Commandant at Paris. This officer was soon satisfied with his innocence, and liberated him, directing at the same time one of his aid-de-camps to accompany him into the street, and there shake hands with him, in order to convince the mob that he was a friend.
The other adventure was during the late Neapolitan and Sicilian revolution; Mr. C⸺ happened to lodge in the same house with our countryman, General Church, who commanded the Sicilian troops, forming the garrison of Palermo. One evening the general had fallen into a personal affray with some of his insubordinate soldiers, and with difficulty disengaged himself from them uninjured; supposing that he had retired to his hotel, they made an attack upon it, and in their rage and disappointment destroyed the whole of its furniture. My friend, and two other English gentlemen, were at the time in the house. The former was lying in bed, seriously ill; they obliged him, however, to rise, and while one of the ruffians stood with a dagger at his breast, the others emptied his trunks, and took away everything except his pantaloons and a great coat, and threatened to murder him if he did not produce more money, stating that they were sure an Englishman must be better provided. One of the other gentlemen was also ill, but being warned by the noise, that something unpropitious was going forward, he contrived to conceal his writing-desk, with his money and papers, under the pillow; when, getting into bed, he made them believe by well groaning, and the assistance of a naturally pale and ghastly-looking face, that he was dying; they were actually afraid to touch him, and walked off, contenting themselves with what they could find about the room.
The third gentleman was treated with tolerable civility; one of the robbers disrobed himself, and putting on the clothes which were lying on a chair, made a simple exchange of property, which some consider no robbery. They cleared the table of his money, and various other articles which he had laid upon it the night before; amongst the rest, however, was a small bit of printed paper, which considering of no value, they threw on the floor; this was one of Hammersley’s bills for fifty pounds.
My friend had the misfortune of being deaf, as well as suffering otherwise from ill health; it may be regarded as a curious incident in our travelling connexion,—that I should want sight, and he hearing; the circumstance is somewhat droll, and afforded considerable amusement to those whom we travelled with, so that we were not unfrequently exposed to a jest on the subject, which we generally participated in, and sometimes contributed to improve.
We agreed with a vittureno to leave Naples on Monday, June 11, and took leave of our friends, and made our other arrangements accordingly; but on returning home on the Sunday evening, I found the vittureno had been to state the danger of setting off alone, on account of the number of robbers on the road; and that they should wait to accompany another voiture, which was to set off on the Tuesday; we accordingly reconciled ourselves to the delay, notwithstanding some of our friends, acquainted with the ways of these fellows, expressed their opinion that we should be teased in this manner for at least two or three days, notwithstanding we had a written agreement for our departure, signed by the proprietor; we now, however, to make more certain for the following day, had another drawn up, with a legal stamp to it, and in which it was stipulated, that if he failed to set off on the next morning, he should forfeit half his fare.
On Tuesday morning we were in readiness at four o’clock, expecting the coach every moment; at five, however, the vittureno came to state that one of his passengers was taken very ill, and could not proceed, and that he must defer going until the next day, when he hoped the gentleman would be able to set off. This was provoking, and we could not help doubting the truth of the story, but on sending our servant to the gentleman’s lodgings, he returned with a confirmation, and we thought best to acquiesce. We made him sign, however, a yet stronger obligation, by which we were empowered, if he did not set off on the Wednesday, to take post-horses at his expense. We kept very close to-day, not wishing to be laughed at by our friends; in the evening, however, we walked down to the mole, amongst the shipping, where we saw an embarkation of horses for the Austrian army in Sicily; and a Neapolitan seventy-four-gun-ship, the Capri, secured to the wharf, and near to the remains of another seventy-four-gun-ship, the St. Ferdinand, which, a short time before had taken fire, and been burned down to the water’s edge.
We felt a strong inclination to avail ourselves of this last evening to visit the magnificent theatre of San Carlos, which had only very lately been opened; but the advantage of retiring early to bed, in order to prepare for our journey on the morrow, induced us to forego the gratification. I had, however, lately been to the Il Fondo, which some prefer to the larger theatre, as its size is better adapted to give effect to the performances. As, however, I could not understand the language, the music alone interested me; but this was indeed exquisite, and fully sufficient to afford the most heart-touching gratification. It was of that kind which