Before setting off in the morning, we were informed that the courier from Rome to Naples, had been obliged to return to Mola on the previous night, to procure a stronger escort, in consequence of intelligence from a peasant, that he was way-laid by a band of thirteen robbers, near the spot where Mrs. A⸺’s carriage had been attempted at the time of my journey to Naples. On our way, we observed a number of sledges loaded with hay, and which were similar to those used for travelling over the snow in North America. We breakfasted at Mola, and arrived at Terracina about eight in the evening, after a considerable detention at Fondi, by custom-house officers, and which was repeated on entering the papal territories; throughout the Neapolitan states, we passed numerous parties of Austrian soldiers posted on the road.
At Terracina our passports were again examined, but we avoided the inspection of baggage by getting the trunks leaded with the custom-house stamps; and afterwards, unexpectedly escaped inspection at Rome, in consequence of one of our party having had the precaution to write for a lascia passare. This gentleman was the person whose illness had detained us a day longer in Naples; and which, after we came to know him, we had no cause to regret, as he proved a most agreeable gentlemanly companion. Major le Chevalier de S⸺, was gentleman of the chamber, and aid-de-camp to the king of Denmark; and we had afterwards the gratification of a considerable intercourse with him. It is singular that many years before, I should have had the pleasure of waiting upon his father, who was governor of St. Thomas’s at the time I visited that island in a British frigate.
On Friday the 15th, the morning being fine, we walked several miles by the side of the voiture, until our driver found it necessary to push on faster. After this we arrived for breakfast, in the middle of the Pontine marshes, where we were put into an apartment only fit for the accommodation of cattle, and congratulated ourselves in being provided with our own breakfast. The afternoon proved cold and wet. At seven o’clock we reached Veletri, where from our bed-room windows might be seen extensive views over the Pontine marshes, reaching as far as Terracina.
On Saturday, we arrived at Albano for breakfast, when my friend C⸺ walked to the lake, to view the famous tunnel constructed by the ancient Romans, to convey water by a magnificent aqueduct to Rome. At three o’clock in the afternoon we arrived at the latter city; at the gates whereof Major S⸺ found his lascia passare which enabled us to proceed without delay to C⸺’s old lodgings, where we not only met with accommodations for ourselves, but also for Major S⸺, who was induced to attach himself to our party: after securing this point, we dined together at the Armellino.
We spent only three days in the, now comparatively deserted, city of Rome; during which time we occupied ourselves, chiefly, in preparations for our journey to Florence, and purchasing little articles of mosaic, &c. for our friends. The only time devoted to vertu, was on the Monday, when we accompanied Major S⸺ to Count Therwaston’s collection of statues. In one room, in order to ascertain whether I knew the difference, my friends placed my hand on the leg of a living man, put into a posture for having a mould taken from him, and this without apprising me that it consisted of animate, instead of inanimate nature. In this collection, amongst others, were busts of Lord Byron, and the crown prince and princess of Denmark.
On Tuesday the 19th, we took our departure from Rome for Florence, by way of Perrugia, at six o’clock in the morning. When we had proceeded about sixteen miles, before descending a hill for Baccano, my friends had a last view of this once famous, and yet interesting city. Besides Mr. C⸺, and Major S⸺, and myself, our voiture contained a Prussian medical officer, a very intelligent agreeable gentleman, and a member of the regency, who had travelled in our consort voiture from Naples, and with whom we had in consequence, a previous acquaintance, so that we were as comfortable as if we had occupied our own carriage, although we had to pay only ten dollars each for a seven days’ journey, supper and beds included.
We breakfasted at Baccano, contrary to the wish of our driver, which we afterwards regretted that we did not comply with, as, according to his representation, we found a most insolent unaccommodating landlord. After this, we passed over Monte Rosi, through the deserted looking town of Nepi, and arrived at Civita Castellana between seven and eight in the evening. In the course of this afternoon, we passed a beautiful female on horseback, riding after the fashion of men.
After sleeping at Civita Castellana, where our supper and bed were both intolerably bad, we recommenced our journey at day-break, and passed through Borghetto, when we crossed the Tiber at Ponte Felice, a stately bridge, built by the popes Sextus V. and Clement VIII. upon the ruins of the old and magnificent one of Augustus.
From hence we proceeded to Otricoli and Narsi. At noon, we reached the once celebrated city of Terni, anciently Interamnia, which, however, has now only to boast of its former greatness, and of having given birth to Tacitus the historian, and the emperors Tacitus and Florian. After a hasty breakfast, we engaged a small open carriage, and went to view the falls of the Velino, distant about five miles. This river, formed by various streams and mountain torrents, from the Appennines, flows quietly for some miles, along a nearly level plain, which at length terminates in one precipitous fall of three hundred feet in depth, exclusive of minor ones, one of which is two hundred, and another eighty feet perpendicular; over these, the stream rushes with tremendous force, dashing upon the rocky bed below with such violence, that a vast cloud of watery smoke is raised around it, and which, to the eye of the spectator placed above, appears to throw the bottom into profundity. From this point, the river runs foaming over a rocky bed, successively tumbling over the minor precipices, until shortly afterwards, it finishes its course in the Nera.