At supper, the maitre d’hotel, a Swede, but acquainted with the English language, waited upon me himself, and enumerated with such encomiums his fine stock of wine, that I could do no less than order a bottle of Burgundy, which I found deliciously refreshing; and thought it economical enough, as it was charged only two francs.
In consequence of the fatigue which I had experienced on my journey, I was glad to retire early to bed. On entering my chamber, I could not but be impressed by its cold comfortless feel; the floor was of stone, the tables marble, the wash-hand basin long, oval, and shallow, like an old fashioned salad dish, and all the furniture of correspondent antiquity. But I had determined not to give way to gloomy reflections; therefore, I wished my host a good night, and being left to myself, soon regained that contented frame of mind, which is indispensable to those who mean to pass smoothly, and happily, through this scene of mortality. On the present occasion I convinced myself that I had every reason to be grateful to that Power, which had so far conducted me in safety through my journey, and whose blessings and mercies have been so largely, I may say incessantly, extended over me.
A part of the succeeding morning was appropriated to calling upon friends for whom I had letters. The one I first inquired for was gone to the south of France; but I had the pleasure of meeting with my old shipmate L⸺ and a friend of his, both of whom had been fellow students with me in Edinburgh. I then repeated my visit to Miss L⸺, at whose house I had called on the preceding evening, and found she had returned that call during my absence; she expressed much surprise and pleasure at seeing me, and engaged me to dine with her on the following day.
I returned to our table d’hôte dinner, and had the unexpected pleasure of finding there a friend whom I had left in Bath the previous spring. There was also another English gentleman at table, who invited me to walk with him to the Palais-Royal. We accordingly took our coffee at one of the numerous caffés, with which that quarter abounds. My companion was a stranger in Paris as well as myself; in consequence of which we contrived to lose our way, and had considerable difficulty in regaining our hotel; we escaped, however, all the dangers, and supercheries, of this very notorious place.
On Tuesday morning, my friend L⸺ called, for the express purpose of accompanying me to inquire after the conveyances to Bordeaux. We were informed, that two coaches leave Paris daily for that place; one at three o’clock, from the Messagerie-Royal, running by way of Tours, where it rests on the second night for a few hours, and occupying four days, and as many nights, in the journey, the fare sixty francs; the other taking the route of Orleans, five days on the road, and the fare fifty francs. The former is considered the best appointed, and the roads and hotels, with which it is connected, much preferable.
But, as it cannot fail to be irksome to travel three or four hundred miles at one sitting, with the exception of the short rest at Tours, I would recommend the English traveller to accomplish some part of his journey in a voiture de voyage, and then rest for a day or two; or perhaps he might, in the first instance, take a place in a regular coach, termed a jumeaux, which travels to Tours in two days; after which the journey may be prosecuted to Poitiers in a voiture or diligence, where the chance must be taken of being carried forward to Bordeaux in the same manner.
After this inquiry, I had to keep my appointment for dinner with Miss L⸺, where I met a young lady, her niece, who resided with her, and Colonel M⸺, a gentleman to whom my friend was on the point of marriage. I enjoyed my visit much, but took leave at an early hour, under the promise of breakfasting with her, at twelve in the morning, a la fourchette.
This lady was anxious that, instead of leaving Paris immediately for Bordeaux, as I had intended, I should place myself for a week in a boarding-house, with a view of gaining, before I commenced so long a journey, some slight acquaintance with the French language. This advice appeared so excellent, that I determined to follow it; and after breakfast, Miss L⸺ was kind enough to accompany me to a house which she recommended, and where I immediately took up my residence.
I should feel myself inexcusable, if I neglected, in this place, to express the lively sense I entertain, of the many kind attentions, which I received from this amiable lady, and which rather indicated the affectionate regards of a sister, than the notices of an accidental acquaintance. I regretted that this was the last opportunity I had of seeing her in Paris, as she was obliged immediately to leave town for Fontainbleau, and did not return before my departure.
“Sweet friendship, solace of mankind,