After the whole was over we returned to our horses. The King then mounted, and the salute was fired from the zombooreks. His infantry first marched off the ground; they were dressed differently in black or in crimson-velvet jackets, in loose breeches of crimson or yellow silk, black sheep-skin caps and light boots. The King passed us at a distance on horseback, and we made our bows. He was preceded by a body of chatters, who are dressed with fantastical caps on their heads, and lively coloured clothes. No other person was near him, nor indeed is any other permitted. The King of Persia is an insulated being, alone in his court. How different is the state of the Sultan at Constantinople, who is almost concealed by the crowds of his attendants. The Princes followed, and then the mob. After this we repaired to a tent, where the Ameen-ed-Doulah had prepared a Persian breakfast for us.
On the 26th, the negotiating parties met to discuss a point reserved in the Treaty. The conference terminated without any decision: and in this state of uncertainty the question remained for three days, when we were told that it had been decided to our satisfaction; and that I was to see the King on the 30th, and to depart for England as soon after as possible.
On the 30th, accordingly the Envoy and I breakfasted with the Minister, in the expectation of our introduction to the King. His Majesty, however, had gone to ride to Shem-Iroun (“the Candle of Persia,”) a village under the mountain, celebrated for the beauty of the situation and the salubrity of its air. We remained with the Minister all the morning. The Ameen-ed-Doulah was there; his spirits were depressed by the intelligence which he had received from Ispahan, (the government of his son) that the melting of the snow and rain had so swoln the Zaiande-rood, that it had overflowed and injured the country to the amount of three lacks of piastres. It had destroyed, besides many houses and buildings, a large bund or dam, nearly opposite to the Chahar Bagh No. The bund was the work of Abbas, and had cost about twenty times the labour of that at Kohrood. The whole damage was reckoned at thirty lacks of piastres. Kanauts were filled up, and large tracts of rich and productive land were rendered useless for the year. At Ispahan, the water filled the under arches of the fine bridge of Aliverdy Khan, that goes into the great Chahar Bagh. This inundation extended over many districts. An express announced that the river at Pool Dallauk was over the bridge: and that the country was in many places so inundated as to be only passable with much danger and difficulty. The great salt swamp was particularly deep.
The 13th of the month Sefer is looked upon as most unlucky among the Persians; they do not keep in the house on this day, but rather walk out into the fields, in order that nothing may disturb their humours, for a quarrel with any one on this day will entail misfortune through the remainder of the year.
On the 31st we went to the King. At this audience He was seated in a room in a square court called the Gulistan, a name derived from the roses, with which (intermixed with cypress and chenar trees) it was planted. We were introduced into it by the two Ministers, through a door small and mean, like those in other parts of the palace, and which are obviously adapted for more easy defence in the event of any sudden alarm. In the centre of the garden is a Koola-frangee, built by Aga Mahomed Khan. The garden itself was arranged in squares, with some miserable palings. Peacocks and hens, great favourites in Persia, were every where walking about. After having paraded through the garden in various directions, (for this also is a part of the ceremonial) we finally approached the presence. We took off our slippers at some distance, and walking on the bare stones, stepped up a difficult staircase into a small and elegant room, in which his Majesty was seated. At the foot of the staircase was a row of eunuchs; and at the top several officers. At our entrance the King desired us to be seated, but we excused ourselves and stood. His Majesty’s throne was that on which he had appeared at our first audience. The Envoy had complained to the Minister, that on that occasion we had no favourable opportunity of seeing the King; and his Majesty had probably been informed of the disappointment, and had condescended in consequence to gratify our curiosity by transfering his throne to a more favourable position, and displaying himself upon it in all the magnificence of his state. He was dressed in a light coat of scarlet and gold cloth; on his shoulders were large layers of pearl and precious stones. On each of his arms were three rows of jewels called the bazebunds; these are his finest jewels, one of which (the Dereea Nore) is one of the largest in the world. Though set in a clumsy manner, they had a rich and royal effect. Round his waist he wore a band about four inches broad of pearl, connected in the middle by a clasp, the centre of which was an emerald of an immense size. In this band he wore a brilliant dagger; from it also dangled a tassel of pearl, which he continually kept in his hand as a plaything. His kaleoon is a beautiful toy: it stood in the left corner of the throne, and was one blaze of precious stones.
On the right of his throne stood four pages, one holding his crown, another his shield and mace, a third his bow and arrows, and a fourth his sword. All these are beautiful, particularly his crown: it is in every part thickly inlaid with pearl, emeralds, rubies and diamonds; on the summit is a gika of precious stones, on the sides of which are plumes of herons’ feathers.
His Majesty talked with much familiarity; and asked us, what news from the Yenzee Duneea, that is, the new world, as they call America. He inquired, “What sort of a place is it? How do you get at it? Is it under ground, or how?” He then talked of our government; and appeared aware that the Kings of England could do little without the intervention of their parliament. In the explanations which followed this subject, his Persian Majesty was visibly astonished that any limitation could be placed to Royal authority. The conversation turned; and the King talked of Buonaparte, and launched out in general terms against the French. After the introduction of some other topics, His Majesty dismissed us by a nod of his head, desiring that a kalaat might be given to me, and that a Mehmandar might be appointed to attend me on my journey.
On the 4th April his Persian Majesty sent me my kalaat or dress of honour: it consisted of a kaba or brocade coat that covered me all over; a small outer coat trimmed with fur over the shoulders and down the back, called the coordee; a brocade sash; and (what I believe is considered a great distinction) a sword. The King was pleased to ask what I should like best to receive as a mark of his Royal regard, and when it was left to his Majesty’s decision, He sent me a sword which he had worn himself. His own name was upon it, by which all his Majesty’s swords are known. All these things were contained in a piece of white linen (the sword lying on the top), and were brought in some state by an officer of the royal household. When they were put into my hands, I carried them respectfully to my head, and then retired and put on the different articles. When I came out again full dressed, every body congratulated me by a “moobarek bashed,” (“good luck attend you.”) I continued in this garb for the remainder of the day, although, according to Persian etiquette, I ought to have worn it for the three days following the investiture.
In the evening we went to the Prime Minister’s, and were shewn the Treaty with France, signed and ratified at Finkenstein, by Buonaparte, in May 1807. It was written on vellum, in a beautiful French hand, and inserted in a cover of black velvet, curiously and elegantly wrought with a spread eagle at each corner, and the initial N in the centre, in a wreath of gold embroidery. The Great Seal was pendant from it, inserted in a plain gold box. The treaty was countersigned by Talleyrand; and by Maret, the Plenipotentiary appointed to treat with Mirza Reza, the Persian Plenipotentiary. I copied this document (consisting of fourteen articles) in the room, and as we went away, the Minister sent the Envoy the Commercial Treaty, which contained twenty-eight articles.
The 6th was observed as a holiday among the Persians, as the commemoration of that, when Hossein’s head, which had been severed from his body by Yezid at Kerbelai, was buried, after an interval of forty days.