ROUTE
From Teheran, the Northern Capital of Persia, To Amasia, in the Road to Constantinople, in 1809.
By James Morier.
With Additional Particulars by Major Rennell.

CHAP. XIV.
TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

DEPARTURE FROM TEHERAN—PLAIN—TUMULI—CASVIN—SULTANIEH; TOMB OF SULTAN MAHOMED KHODABENDEH; CITADEL: NEW TOWN OF SULTANABAD—MARMOTS—KING’S PLEASURE-HOUSE—ZENGAN—ELAUTS—INSCRIPTION AT ARMAGHANÉH—RIVER KIZZIL OZAN—MIAUNÉH—DISPUTE—ESTABLISHMENT OF COURIERS—CARAVANSERAI—WOMEN IN PERSIA.

The 7th of May 1809, which (as being the festival of Omar-Coushen, or the killing of Omar) was considered a very lucky day, was at length fixed for our departure. Mirza Abul Hassan (the Persian Envoy Extraordinary) and I sent on our baggage in the morning to Imaum Reza, about three miles from the city, and followed ourselves at five o’clock in the evening. I was accompanied by my best of friends, Sir Harford Jones and the rest of his suite, and we had our parting dinner in a tent which he had pitched there for the purpose.

The spot at which we stopped was the tomb of a son of Imaum Reza, frequented as a place of devotion. It is a square building, covered with a cupola, and enclosed in a square by a wall; beyond which, in a row on each side, are some young trees and shrubs and flowers. The country all around was in a high state of verdure. I went to the top of the gate of the tomb, from which I took the following bearings: Teheran N. 70 E.; Demawend N. 50 E.; extremity of the Albores (at the foot of which leads the road to Casvin) N. 70 W.; Rey S. 45 E.

8th. After having conversed with Sir Harford on matters of business, I slept till three in the morning, and then set off. Sir Harford accompanied us for some time, but quitted us at half an hour after sun-rise.

The plain of Teheran is covered with villages: I could count twenty to the right and to the left. The road followed, as far as Karatch, the bearing of N. 70 W. which I had taken on the preceding day. At about ten miles from the Imaum Reza, we came to a dike cut from the river at Karatch, from which our water-carriers were used to bring drinking-water for our party at Teheran. At about six miles from Imaum Reza is a village called Geldisi, distant three miles on the left: another at the foot of the Albores called Kend; further on the left is Ali-shah-abad, a larger place, with many trees around; then Sherar; then high on the hills to the right a pretty village called Boragoun. As we approached we saw the bed of the river called Aub Karatch, running about S. W. which I am told takes its source in the Albores, and runs towards Kinar-à-Gird. The bed is large, but it was then only partially filled. We crossed at the winding of the road over a brick bridge of two arches of different sizes: near it are some ruins of other brick buildings, apparently of the same age. In this spot is an inlet of the mountains, which seems to form a pretty plain, and in which I remarked some hamlets.

The tomb of the son of Imaum Hassan renders Karatch a pleasing object at a distance. The dome is shaded by the rich foliage of two fine ehenar trees, and a stream cut from the river runs near the walls. The Persian Envoy informed me that this village, and those on the plain, belong to his brother-in-law the Ameen-ed-Doulah, and were formerly the property of his uncle the late Prime Minister. The Mirza himself took up his lodgings in the tomb; my Mehmandar put us in the house of a peasant, which was clean though small; the people here burn cakes of cow-dung for their common fuel. In a little enclosure behind the house was a vine. The sun-set N. 70 W.

9th. We departed from Karatch at one o’clock in the morning, and, as well as I could ascertain our bearing by the stars, continued our route in the direction of the preceding day. Two fursungs from Karatch, in a plain of immense extent, is Kemelabad. We were told that the road to our stage through the plain was swampy; we therefore chose another to the right, which (after a ride of four hours and a half, and a distance perhaps of sixteen miles) brought us, about sun-rise, to a delightful village called Koran.