At noon we had the usual thunder storm. The surface of the mountain is hard, and apparently contains much mineral matter. A very elevated chain covered with snow extends before the village; the highest part bearing W. and taking a N. direction. The Kara Sou is no longer known by that name at Mama Khatoun, though by the description of the country, we recognized it under that of Frat. The water at this place has no distinct designation, but is called simply, the river of Mama Khatoun.
On the 24th we proceeded to Kara Colagh, a distance called twelve hours, which we performed in ten, and which in road measure may be reckoned at thirty-two miles. We travelled for eight hours on a bearing of W. and for the remainder of the stage turned to the N. When we had advanced about six miles and a half, we came to the river, which in its earlier progress we had passed as the Kara Sou, but which here, as we suspected at Mama Khatoun, was known as the Frat, and was said to flow finally near Maaden Kebban, into that which rises at Diadin. We crossed it over a very good bridge of eight arches, constructed altogether of the same materials, and in the same style as the buildings at Mama Khatoun. At the distance scarcely of a stone’s throw is the confluence of the Frat, and that river which flows near Mama Khatoun; their united waters form a considerable stream, following the direction N. to S. 40 W. Near the bridge is the village of Manastour. We traced upwards to the N. for two hours, the river which I conceive to be the original parent of the Euphrates, enjoying at every turn new and beautiful pictures of cultivation, and woodland.
At the distance of about twenty miles we came to a large but completely deserted village, called Moss. Its inhabitants had fled the day before to their mountains, from the depredation of the Courds. Near it are very ancient tombs, some placed evidently over the bodies of Christians, for among the ornaments on some of the stones is carved the cross. One has an Armenian inscription. Here and there are collections of very large stones, rudely piled one over the other. On the other side of the stream is Pekesidge, a town with a castle on a conical hill. This is on the high road leading from Ak Caléh to Constantinople, through Shoghoun Deréh, the pass occupied by the Courds. After this is the village of Ak Doghan, and then that of Kismisore, but both deserted. The cultivation is however very plentiful. In our line to the W. we crossed a branch of the river, where the water was up to the horses’ bellies.
Kara Colagh is a large village, and the Menzil Khonéh is here. The surrounding mountains still bear an appearance of mineral. The clouds gathered at the usual hour, but in a much smaller quantity than on the preceding days. There was round the road a great profusion of wild herbs, and amongst others asparagus.
25th. On the next morning we had a great dispute at the Menzil Khonéh. The master peremptorily required that we should pay for the horses with which he furnished us. In vain did the Mirza persist that he was an Elchee, an Embassador; our host swore that he cared neither for the Shah of Persia, nor for his own Sultan, and that he must have our money before we should take his beasts. We agreed at last to give twenty-five piastres for the hire of twenty horses.
Our road first took a N. direction among uncultivated mountains, where I am told that the snow is frequently so deep in winter as to impede the passage of travellers. It then varied W. and N. and N. and W. frequently; but on a general bearing, I think that we averaged N. 60 W. to Chiflik, a distance called twelve hours, and which we performed exactly in that time, on a reckoning of forty miles. In winding through the mountains, we came to parts beautifully wooded with fir, pines, and walnut-trees; and forming, particularly on a long descent, the most picturesque forest scenery that can be imagined. At the summit of the mountains we had a continual rain for two hours, accompanied with thunder. When we reached the close of the descent, we discovered on our left hand the village of Sadac, situated about two miles from the road on the declivity of the hills, with a surrounding territory admirably fertile in corn, and well watered. From this place to Chiflik is fifteen miles: the road leading through one of the most beautiful and happy looking vallies that I ever saw. A stream, swoln when we saw it by the rains, runs through it, and on each side spreads a more abundant vegetation.
On quitting the valley we came on the plain in which Chiflik lies, so well cultivated that it quite transported me into some of the best parts of England. The peasants were ploughing the ground, while immense flocks of sheep, goats, and oxen were spread over the whole country. The fields were parted off by hedges and ditches; the road was well defined; and pretty villages rose here and there, intermixed with the most luxuriant verdure. Spring was here in its bloom, and the whole plain was a little Eden.
At about six hours from Kara Colagh, the road leads N. to the district of Bybourg or Baibort, whilst our road led us W.
The village of Chiflik is interspersed with poplars and willows; the out-houses for cattle were built of rafters laid horizontally, and covered with a roof of earth. A Musselim resides here under the government of Arz-roum.
26th. From Chiflik we went to Caraja, distant twenty miles (six hours) on a bearing of W. We continued through the plain, which we had entered on the preceding day; and found it to its close as beautiful as in its commencement. The stream which we had admired in the valley of Sadac, issues into the plain and follows the road. We crossed it over a wooden bridge. It supplies the inhabitants of the neighbourhood plentifully with fish, of which indeed we had a specimen in some excellent trout, served up to us for breakfast.