We were delayed some time, at the moment of our departure, by a fierce dispute that arose between the Persians and the Turk and his family at whose house we had lodged. One of the Persian servants had lost his shalwars or riding breeches, and, in his anxiety to find them, taxed the Turk with having stolen them. The Turk retorted with warmth; and the contention was already going on at a high rate, when the Embassador arrived, brandishing the breeches in the air, and joining in the attack on the Turk. It seems that the Embassador, who had before suspected the integrity of our host, immediately on hearing the affray, searched in the suspicious parts of our chamber, and in a bye-corner found (wrapped up in a slip of hay) the unlucky object of dispute. The confusion of the Turk, who, by his dress and exterior possessions, was passing for a man of respectability in the town, may be better imagined than described.
We at length left Carahissar, and travelled eighteen miles W. on a mountainous and stony road. About three miles from our last station we saw the road to Diarbekir and Bagdad, bearing S. 25 W. We continued our own course to the W. and came to the banks of a large stream called (like the earlier part of the Euphrates) the Kara Sou, and flowing from E. to W. in a channel between two chains of rocks. In its subsequent progress, like the Euphrates also, it assumes a new name; and at Niksar is called the Kelki Irmak[43]. I am told that it takes its rise near the mines, fifteen days journey from the point where we saw it, and that it finally falls into the Black Sea. We encamped on the banks, having followed the windings of the river through the mountains, on a bad road, now and then rendered dangerous by narrow and steep passes. Our halt was on the extremity of the range, with a village to our right; on the eminence on the opposite side of the water, appeared a ruin of which no one could give me any better account, than that it was a church built by the Giaours or infidels. I could observe a portico with a Roman arch; and, not being able to cross the stream and take a nearer view, I was obliged to be contented with this scanty information. About noon a strong wind arose from the S. W. bringing together an immense collection of thick clouds; which at the close of the evening fell in heavy torrents of rain. Here again we were exposed to the storm for the night, without any other shelter than that which the foliage of two trees, and the partial covering of a shelving rock might yield.
1st. July. We proceeded W. again about eighteen miles, and as on the preceding day, stopped by the banks of the river, which continued to wind at the foot of two ranges of mountains. On the right chain was the line of our route, in parts singularly dangerous: in one pass the soil crumbled under our feet as we advanced, and fell a horrid depth into the precipice over the river below. Nor indeed, if a little more rain had fallen, would the road have been practicable at any hazard. About eight miles from Kuley Hissar (on the left of our course, and on the other side of the river) is a small structure built over a hot spring. In the little plains and vallies that now and then intervened we met with much vegetation. The acacia was in great plenty; with plants of every hue. At the end of the stage we saw the castle of Kuley Hissar, situated on the pinnacle of a very high part of the mountains. We ascended a very steep and intricate road, and from the summit saw in the deep valley extended at our feet, the beautiful village of Kuley Hissar. It consists of houses unconnected with one another, and scattered in a wood of every description, (particularly of fruit-trees;) the refreshing tints of which were admirably contrasted with the arid surfaces of the surrounding heights. A little art would render the scene perfect. Streams of running water murmured in every part of this plantation; and an exhilarating breeze kept up a delightful temperature in the air. The situation however, girded close by high land on every side, was in itself much warmer than Carahissar, or any part of our preceding route. Here indeed we found the season for cherries expired; and we got only the vishna (sour cherry) and the white mulberry. The corn was generally approaching to a state fit for the sickle: and in some warmer exposures had already been cut.
The fort at the summit was some years ago destroyed by Jussuf Pacha, (the present Grand Vizier, 1809) who found that the inhabitants of the neighbouring region were inclined to be turbulent and independent; a disposition which, I understand, is so little subdued, that they are now rebuilding their strong hold. To the port of Janik on the Black Sea, the distance from Kuley Hissar is not more than twelve hours.
2d. July. We were obliged to hire our horses from this stage forwards at four piastres each. The master of the Menzil Khonéh assigned as a reason, that this village paid more than others to the Miri, and was consequently relieved from the burthen of any stated establishment, and was not required to furnish travellers at the common rate. Notwithstanding therefore all our assertions that we were on the business of government; notwithstanding our boyouroultee or public orders, (and others more immediately from the Musselim of Carahissar, in whose jurisdiction the place is) we were obliged to comply. Yet the horses for which we had paid so largely and unusually were too bad to carry us further than twelve miles; we were obliged therefore to unload the baggage, and rest them on a fine pasturage in an open part of the mountains. Our course had been N. 50 W. During our ride we traversed forests of pine trees, (intermixed with hazels, oak-bushes, and a variety of other plants) here and there forming most beautiful pictures. In some places the wood had been burnt down; and the countrymen were ploughing the land between the old trunks, where probably they would sow rye. The people here cut their trees about five feet from the ground, burning them a little, and then applying the hatchet.
3d. We had not however long taken possession of our station, and our cattle had not long indulged on the fat pasture that extended itself around, before a party of armed Turks, some on horseback and some on foot, came to us and desired us to withdraw our horses from the grass, for it was the property of their village. This startled the Persians, who swore that the grass was common property, for that it was the gift of God, and that their horses had as much right to feed upon it as any other: the Turks, however, soon made them understand, that the usages of their several countries differed in this respect: one of them at the same time remarking, “You might as truly say, that corn, goats, cows, and sheep are common property, for they are all, as well as grass, the gifts of God.” The peasants here indeed take much pains with their grass, which they cut and dry into hay, and store up for the winter: whereas in Persia, grass is unappropriated; and even barley is open to the King’s people; for we used to turn our horses into the barley fields, where, in the King’s name and right, they devoured all around, while the poor cultivator did not dare to say a word to us. We were no longer in Persia, and therefore obeyed the summons; and departed an hour after sun-set to seek a fresh pasturage.
We rode for five hours through thick woods of pine trees beautifully enlightened by the moon, which rose an hour after we had mounted. We again stopped, and in a charming valley fed our cattle till morning dawned; when we proceeded, and in four hours reached the village of Isker Sou. From the general direction of our road, we averaged probably about N. 70 W. on a distance which might be twenty-seven miles. Three hours before we reached Isker Sou is the large village of Kizzil Javeran, high on the mountain on the left; and afterwards on both sides a number of villages, the small wooden houses of which are scattered unconnectedly in various directions on the declivities and summits of the hills. The people build their houses entirely of wood, laying trunks of the pine trees horizontally one over another, and fitting their extremities at the angles by notches and holes. About five miles from Isker Sou, on the left of the road, is a rock completely insulated among green fields. The substance is a hard grey granite, in which is excavated, certainly with great labour, a chamber nine feet square, with a seat and two recesses. On the left of the inside on entering is a figure, which, from its resemblance to a Cross, induced me to suppose that the spot, in which it appeared, had been the retreat of some of the primitive Christians.
Our Bosnian Quixote had been missing since the preceding evening; and we felt a general apprehension that he had fallen a prey to the Turks, who warned us from their pasture. He was late in preparing to follow us, was encumbered with two horses, and with trappings so numerous, that notwithstanding his warlike appearance he would have presented an easy conquest to any attack; above all, he was known to carry much gold. But his life was in fact uninjured, and he rejoined us in a subsequent part of our route. The poor creature was now and then wont to sing some of his patriotic songs, which are of a peculiarly doleful and melancholy harmony; and every time he begun his lay it happened that rain fell soon after. I unluckily told the Persians, who were too credulous and superstitious not to believe me, that the singing of the people of Bosnia invariably draws down rain: so that the poor fellow’s strains, whenever he attempted to renew them, were afterwards stopped by the joint force of all his comrades.
The people of Isker Sou informed me, that for six months of the year the snow lies on the ground. The night indeed which we passed in their village was so sensibly cold that all our warmest clothes were brought into use, before we could get ourselves tolerably comfortable. In a general view of our route, I should think that we had been rising for some time. The country was in a state of internal warfare, which however did not interfere with the passage of strangers. In the village there was then from Janik one of Jusuff Pacha’s Tuffenchee Bashees, or captains, who with fifty followers was feeding at the expence of the peasantry. Chappan Oglu was the principal object of terror in the neighbourhood; his troops had lately fired the Bazar of Niksar, which is under the jurisdiction of Haznadar Oglu, Governor of Janik.
4th. of July. From Isker Sou we went to Niksar. We were seven hours on the road on a bearing of West, which, from the unequal surface of the country, may be reckoned at twenty-one miles. About one mile and a half from Isker Sou we came to a wooden bridge over a small stream, which is the termination of the Government of Arz-roum; when therefore a Pacha is appointed, the ceremony of sacrificing is performed at this spot. After this we passed several villages on all sides, but totally abandoned by their inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the different countries against the depredations of the Delhis, and the occasional visits of the soldiers of Chappan Oglu. There is a village immediately at the pass (where we entered the mountains); and here commenced a series of mountain scenery, of the wildest and most romantic character. No description is adequate to paint the brilliancy and luxuriance of vegetation, and the picturesque forms of this region; and few imaginations are sufficiently fertile to supply the idea of a spring in these mountains. Trees of every denomination grow here in the wildest profusion, whilst their roots are embalmed by the odour of myriads of flowers. The oak here is but an indifferent tree; but there are walnut and plane-trees, pines and firs of a fine growth. Yet lovely as the spring was here, the cold on the mountains is said to be intense in winter; and even where we crossed the highest part of the range we were enveloped some time in clouds, which came from the North, and which now and then broke in frequent and sharp showers.