At about four hours from Ismid, having in many parts of the road paced the shores of the sea, we reached a small village situated on the very borders of it. Here were passage-boats to Constantinople, and many persons were going. I preferred, however, the surer route, and continued with my post-horses to Gevisa, ascending a steep road near an old and ruined fortification.
Gevisa is a small town with a good mosque and neat minarets nicely white-washed. The country around it was little cultivated and less wooded, so that it excited in me no other interest than that which its vicinity to the capital might give. Yet, in any other circumstances than those of my eagerness to reach Constantinople, I should not have overlooked the delight of searching for the tomb of Hannibal. I now however, made every haste to get to Scutari before dark, but I did not succeed, and was obliged to pass the night in a coffee-house on the borders of the Bosphorus.
The next morning, the 18th July 1809, I crossed from Scutari, and took up my abode in Pera, having completed the journey from Teheran in two months and ten days, in which time I had not once slept out of my clothes.
CHAP. XIX.
CONCLUSION.
PERSIAN OPINIONS OF TURKEY—MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, THE ENVOY, ENTERTAINED BY MR. ADAIR: INTRODUCTION OF THE SUITE TO THE MANNERS OF EUROPE—THEIR ACCOMMODATIONS TO OUR USAGES—CONTRASTED WITH THE TURKS—DIFFERENCE OF THE NATIONAL CHARACTER—ADVANCES OF PERSIA—DEPARTURE FROM TURKEY—THE PERSIANS AT SEA—CONVERSATIONS WITH THE ENVOY: ON THE DRESS, BEAUTY, OCCUPATIONS, AND EDUCATION OF THE WOMEN OF PERSIA.
In a short time after my arrival, the Persian Envoy and his suite rejoined me at Constantinople. The splendour of the scenery, and the great novelty of every object about that city, did not seem to strike them with the surprise that I had expected. Few people are more sensible than they are to any thing, that is new and extraordinary; and few more curious and inquisitive. I could therefore only attribute their apparent indifference to the downright jealousy which they entertain of the Turks. Often when (struck with the beauties of the very fine tracts of country which we were passing) I have attempted to make them join in my feelings of admiration, they merely yielded a cool assent; always endeavouring to lessen my ardour by saying, “what is the use of such country, if it be without order?” And they considered almost as a gross national insult any comparison between the arid unshaded mountains of Persia, and the splendid foliage and rich vegetation of the Turkish dominions. As, however, they were very keenly alive to the beauties of nature, and enjoyed much the shade of trees and the refreshing sound of running water; and as such spots recurred constantly during the course of our journey, they could not restrain their expressions of delight, though they always added at the same time, “What a pity this charming country is in the hands of these people! If we had it, (and God grant we shall) what a paradise it would be.”
I frequently visited the Mirza Abul Hassan at Scutari. The windows of his apartment had a fine view of the great extent of Constantinople, the Seraglio point, the shipping in the harbour, the palaces of Dolma Baghehe, and part of the Sultan’s fleet, (consisting of two three-deckers and five seventy-fours, at their anchorage) and all the activity spread over the Bosphorus by the numerous vessels of all descriptions rowing about in every direction, altogether forming the most beautiful picture that an imagination the most fertile could picture to itself; and contrasted in the strongest manner with the misery, dulness, and sterility of Teheran and its surrounding scenery. Whenever I called his attention to it, he seemed to shrink from the observation; and if I talked of the Turkish fleet, he said, “who can look at any ships, after he has seen English ships?” Indeed, he was so little disposed to compliment the Turks, that when the Caimakan, being desirous to inspire him with a grand idea of the naval force of the Sultan, sent a Turkish officer to conduct him near the fleet, the Persian replied, “I have seen English ships much finer than any thing that you can show me.”
Yet in cases where no national jealousy intervened, whenever hospitality and kindness were shewn the Persian, I must do him the justice to add, that he never omitted to make the strongest acknowledgments of them; and, I believe, the fullest returns in his power. The most trifling attention never appeared, from the general conversation and temper of him or his people, to be thrown away upon them. The Envoy always spoke in raptures of the kindnesses which he had received in India, mentioning the names of his friends every time with an increased delight, and apparently with an unfeigned sincerity.
During the Mirza’s residence at Constantinople, he was invited by Mr. Adair to an entertainment, given on the occasion, and consisting of a dinner under tents at the Buyukderé meadow, and a ball and supper at night, in a house borrowed for the purpose. The Mirza did not seem at all astonished at the introduction of ladies into the society of men, as he had already witnessed our customs in the English settlements in India: but his attendants, who had just left the very innermost parts of Persia, by one common consent collected themselves together in a corner, and eyed every thing with the most anxious astonishment and attention. Their natural loquacity seemed to have quite forsaken them, and they sat with their mouths wide open, and eyes full-staring, and uttered not a single word.