The duties arising from the exports and imports, of which I could not learn the amount, are paid at Okotsk: but the tribute is collected at Bolcheretsk; and, I was informed by Major Behm, amounted in value to ten thousand roubles annually.
There are six vessels (of forty to fifty tons burthen) employed by the empress between Okotsk and Bolcheretsk, five of which are appropriated to the transporting of stores and provisions from Okotsk to Bolcheretsk; except that once in two or three years, some of them go round to Awatska, and the Kamtschatka river; the sixth is only used as a packet-boat, and always kept in readiness, and properly equipped for conveying dispatches. Besides these, there are about fourteen vessels employed by the merchants in the fur trade, amongst the islands to the eastward. One of these we found frozen up in the harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, which was to sail on a trading voyage to Oonalashka, as soon as the season would permit.
It is here to be observed, that the most considerable and valuable part of the fur-trade is carried on with the islands that lie between Kamtschatka and America. These were first discovered by Beering, in 1741, and being found to abound with sea-otters, the Russian merchants became exceedingly eager in searching for the other islands seen by that navigator, to the south-east of Kamtschatka, called, in Muller’s map, the Islands of Seduction, St. Abraham, &c. In these expeditions they fell in with three groups of islands. The first, about fifteen degrees to the east of Kamtschatka, in 53° N. latitude; the second, about twelve degrees to the eastward of the former; and the third, Oonalashka, and the islands in its neighbourhood. These trading adventurers advanced also as far east as Shumagin’s Islands (so called by Beering), the largest of which is named Kodlak. But here, as well as on the continent at Alaska, they met with so warm a reception, in their attempts to compel the payment of a tribute, that they never afterward ventured so far. However, they conquered and made tributary the three groups before mentioned.
In the Russian charts, the whole sea between Kamtschatka and America is covered with islands; for the adventurers in these expeditions frequently falling in with land, which they imagined did not agree with the situation of other laid down by preceding voyagers, immediately concluded it must be a new discovery, and reported it as such on their return; and since the vessels employed in these expeditions were usually out three or four years, and oftentimes longer, these mistakes were not in the way of being soon rectified. It is, however, now pretty certain, that the islands already enumerated are all that have yet been discovered by the Russians in that sea to the southward of 60° of latitude.
It is from these islands that the sea-otter skins, the most valuable article of the fur trade, are for the most part drawn; and as they are brought completely under the Russian dominion, the merchants have settlements upon them where their factors reside, for the purpose of bartering with the natives. It was with a view to the farther increase and extension of this trade, that the admiralty of Okotsk fitted out an expedition for the purpose of making discoveries to the north and north-east of the islands above mentioned, and gave the command of it, as I have already observed, to Lieutenant Synd. This gentleman, having directed his course too far to the northward, failed in the object of his voyage; for, as we never saw the sea-otter to the northward of Bristol Bay, it seems probable that they shun those latitudes where the larger kind of amphibious sea animals abound. This was the last expedition undertaken by the Russians for prosecuting discoveries to the eastward; but they will undoubtedly make a proper use of the advantages we have opened to them, by the discovery of Cook’s river.
Notwithstanding the general intercourse that, for the last forty years, hath taken place between the natives, the Russians, and Cossacks, the former are not more distinguished from the latter by their features and general figure, than by their habits and cast of mind. Of the persons of the natives, a description hath been already given, and I shall only add, that their stature is much below the common size. This Major Behm attributes, in a great measure, to their marrying so early; both sexes generally entering into the conjugal state at the age of thirteen or fourteen. Their industry is abundantly conspicuous, without being contrasted with the laziness of their Russian and Cossack inmates, who are fond of intermarrying with them, and, as it should seem, for no other reason but that they may be supported in sloth and inactivity. To this want of bodily exertion may be attributed those dreadful scorbutic complaints which none of them escape; whilst the natives, by constant exercise and toil in the open air, are entirely free from them.
Referring the reader for an account of the manners, customs, and superstitions of the Kamtschadales at the time the Russians became first acquainted with this country to Krascheninicoff, I shall proceed to a description of their habitations and dress.
The houses (if they may be allowed that name) are of three distinct sorts, jourts, balagans, and log-houses, called here isbas. The first are their winter; the second their summer habitations; the third are altogether of Russian introduction, and inhabited only by the better and wealthier sort.
The jourts, or winter habitations, are constructed in the following manner: An oblong square of dimensions proportioned to the number of persons for whom it is intended, (for it is proper to observe, that several families live together in the same jourt,) is dug in the earth to the depth of about six feet. Within this space strong posts, or wooden pillars, are fastened in the ground, at proper distances from each other, on which are extended the beams for the support of the roof, which is formed by joists, resting on the ground with one end, and on the beams with the other. The interstices between the joists are filled up with a strong wicker-work, and the whole covered with turf; so that a jourt has externally the appearance of a round squat hillock. A hole is left in the centre, which serves for chimney, window, and entrance, and the inhabitants pass in and out by means of a strong pole (instead of a ladder), notched just deep enough to afford a little holding to the toe. There is likewise another entrance in the side, even with the ground, for the convenience of the women; but if a man makes use of it, he subjects himself to the same disgrace and derision as a sailor would, who descends through lubbers’ hole. The jourt consists of one apartment of the form of an oblong square. Along the sides are extended broad platforms, made of boards, and raised about six inches from the ground, which they use as seats, and on which they go to rest, after strewing them with mats and skins. On one side is the fire-place, and the side opposite is entirely set apart for the stowage of provisions and kitchen utensils. At their feasts and ceremonious entertainments, the hotter the jourts are made for the reception of the guests the greater the compliment. We found them at all times so hot, as to make any length of stay in them to us intolerable. They betake themselves to the jourts the middle of October; and, for the most part, continue in them till the middle of May.
The balagans are raised upon nine posts, fixed into the earth in three rows, at equal distances from one another, and about thirteen feet high from the surface. At the height of between nine and ten feet, rafters are passed from post to post, and firmly secured by strong ropes. On these rafters are laid the joists, and the whole being covered with turf, constitutes the platform or floor of the balagan. On this is raised a roof of a conical figure, by means of tall poles, fastened down to the rafters at one end, and meeting together in a point at the top, and thatched over with strong coarse grass. The balagans have two doors placed opposite each other, and they ascend to them by the same sort of ladders they use in the jourts. The lower part is left entirely open; and within it they dry their fish, roots, vegetables, and other articles of winter consumption. The proportion of jourts to balagans is as one to six; so that six families generally live together in one jourt.