The chucks last named belong to the class of compound or mechanical tools; and though their usefulness is beyond question, they need not be considered absolutely necessary, as the work which they are designed to facilitate can be and often is done without their aid. Indeed, success in the art of turning by no means depends absolutely upon the possession of expensive apparatus, and the amateur or mechanic will find the advantage of ransacking his own brain for the devising of divers makeshifts and off-hand contrivances—especially in this chuck-making department.
Among the simple expedients the following will be found well worthy of adoption.
A, [Fig. 32], is a simple flange or flat brass plate with a boss behind, similar to a small face plate, and is to be turned up, drilled, and tapped to fit the mandrel. If the latter has a diameter of ¾ of an inch, a few of these brass pieces should be cast from a set of wooden patterns ranging from two to three or four inches across the diameter of the plate, and, after having been fitted to the mandrel and turned, four holes, countersunk for wood screws, should be made, as shown in the sketch. These are intended to do away with the necessity of boring out and tapping each individual wooden chuck. They can be readily attached to any piece of wood by four screws, and a few minutes will be sufficient to adapt the same to any required purpose. A flat piece of board, for instance, itself too thin, or of too soft substance to permit of its being attached to the mandrel in the ordinary way, can thus be made into a temporary face plate, or a ring cut out of it, or any desired operation performed upon it. Indeed, these socket pieces will be found serviceable on many occasions, and will do away with the necessity of a large set of cup chucks.
Figs. 32, 33.
A few of the latter, however, are very useful and will cost but little. The castings are sold by weight, and the turner will experience no difficulty in fitting and finishing them for himself. [Fig. 33] is the form of these, and needs no description. The substance may be from ⅛ to ¼ of an inch, and need not be more, as that thickness will stand any reasonable shock caused by driving a piece of wood into the chuck, and it is always well not to overweight the mandrel with chucks of undue size or substance. The addition of three to six screws to one or two sizes of the cup chuck extends its usefulness. This form is represented in [Fig. 34], A and B. In this case, the casting may be rather more substantial (¼ to ⅜ of an inch in thickness). The screws must be strictly radial, pointing to the centre of the circle, and their ends must be turned off or filed flat. Their heads may be squared to enable a key or pair of pincers to be applied, or round with a hole through them. It is better to make this kind of chuck with six screws—three in one plane, and three again between these in another plane behind them. In fitting a piece of work into the chuck, it will not at first be found an easy matter to make it run truly. The best way is to centre it as nearly as can be guessed, by means of the three screws nearest to the open end of the chuck, and then, placing the latter on the mandrel, set the lathe in slow motion and correct the eccentricity of the piece by means of the three inner screws. Even after this it is probable that a little alternate slackening and tightening of the different screws may be necessary; but a little practice will quickly enable the turner to set a piece of work in the true axial line of the mandrel without much difficulty, and the work will then be held very securely. Any short piece, such as the ring of an eccentric to be bored truly inside, may be held by the outer set of screws alone; but if such a piece of work as a small cylinder is to be bored, the six screws must be brought into action. Here let the hint given when speaking of projecting screws, be repeated, Beware of the knuckles, which are peculiarly liable to be damaged in making use of these chucks. The shirt sleeve or coat, moreover, does not always enjoy perfect immunity from similar danger, and both should be kept out of harm's way, not for their own sake only, but because the arm may be brought into violent contact with the rest if the sleeve should get entangled (the momentum of the flywheel being great, and therefore not to be checked entirely at any given moment). A single rap of the above nature is not a delightful even if salutary lesson to the novice.
Fig. 34.
To hold rings and washers a tapering mandrel, [Fig. 35], is used; and of these it is necessary to keep a few different sizes to suit different diameters. These may be made of iron or brass if for permanent use, but box or other hard wood is a ready substitute, and may be turned down for smaller work when the surface gets spoiled by use. The expanding mandrel, "Hicks' patent," which will be treated of hereafter, is a convenient substitute for the simple conical form here spoken of; and in manufactories where large numbers of mandrels have to be kept of various sizes, a great saving of time, money, and labour is effected by their use. For amateurs and artisans in a smaller way of business the simpler form is generally sufficient. A slight modification is here appended, by which the common form may sometimes be made more efficient in the holding a ring tightly while undergoing the operation of turning, and this can be made applicable to metal mandrels, though specially intended for wooden ones. [Fig. 36].
