Figs. 118, 119, 120, 121.

For light brass work, such as small model engines now so generally sold, a description of lathe may be used of which no mention has yet been made—namely, a bar lathe [Fig. 122]. Such a tool may be made for £3 or £4, and will be found sufficient for such work as specified.

Fig. 122.

In place of the double bed a triangular bar of cast iron is used, on which the poppets slide, and are clamped. D shows one of two sockets with feet which hold the ends of the bar, and by which the lathe can be mounted on any stout plank or on the window sill. The pulley A is made for a strap, because this allows of a plain flywheel, which is much cheaper than those which are bevelled and turned. The rest is shown at E and F. The part E slides upon the bar like the poppet—at the top is a dovetailed groove to receive the slide F, which carries the socket for the tee, and is fixed by a turn of the screw seen on the top of it. There is much to be said in favour of triangle bar lathes, they are very stiff, and can be fixed anywhere. The flywheel can be supported on a separate frame, which is an excellent plan, for the jerk of the treadle and crank is not communicated to the poppets and mandrel. In Maudslay's triangle bar lathe, which was made for amateurs, a slide rest was attached, and the whole work was first class—of late they have gone out of fashion, but are nevertheless good tools.

[Fig. 123] represents another very simple form of lathe for turning small articles of brass. It may be said to be one remove from the watchmaker's bow lathe, as it has no true mandrel or treadle; the small flywheel being attached to an arm at the back and worked by hand. The left hand is used for the latter purpose while the tool is held in the right. Through a tapped hole in the left hand poppet passes a steel pin shown at E, on a larger scale; this screws into the poppet after passing through a brass pulley B; this bolt ends in a point, and an arm fixed into the pulley becomes a dog to act against a carrier screwed on to the work as in turning iron. Thus the mandrel and point are fixtures, and the pulley only turns when motion is communicated to it by a catgut from the flywheel behind it. The back poppet and rest, which last is shown separately, slide on the rectangular bar; the latter is about two inches wide, and three eighths thick, and is made with feet to screw to any convenient support. This lathe is especially adapted for work of small size which can be centred at both ends, and on which a carrier can be fixed to bear against the pin, E, of the pulley; nevertheless it is even possible to use chucks, if cast in metal with a pulley to each like G. A spindle must in this case be made like H, on which the chuck must be slipped, and fixed by the nut in the hollow of the chuck. Although however this form of lathe is sometimes met with, and may be used as a makeshift, a small triangle bar or 3in. lathe of the usual form is far preferable.

Fig. 123.

In centering a bar of iron in the lathe too much care cannot be exercised in causing it to run evenly. The ends should be drilled, first with a small, and afterwards with a larger drill, so that a countersunk hole may be obtained in order to keep the point of the lathe-centre from touching the bottom of the hole. If this is not done the friction of the work upon its bearing will soon spoil the lathe-centre, and the work itself will speedily get out of truth, and it will not be possible to screw up the spindle of the back poppet so as to correct this. Of course in turning up very small work this drilling cannot be done. A simple hole must then be made, sufficient for the safe support of the work while being turned, but even in this case the angle of the drill point should be less than that of the conical centre of the lathe, the point of which will then run free. To mark the true centres of a round bar of metal a punch has been devised like [Fig. 124]. This is figured in Bergeron's work, and is very serviceable. To insure its working truly be careful that the bar of metal is filed flat on the ends, and that the surface of the latter is at right angles to the length of the bar. It is then only necessary to place the end of the piece in the conical part of the cup (which will be best effected by fixing the bar in a vice) and by raising the spring and letting it go sudden by a sufficient mark will be made to guide the point of the drill.