Supposing the tool fixed in the tool holder in the position indicated, and just overlapping the circumference at one end (the right). Take hold of the handles, one in each hand, and with that which advances the tool from end to end of the bar try very carefully whether the tool will cut cleanly by making a turn or two while the lathe is in slow motion. If the tool bites too deeply, turn the other handle and ease it. If you still find the tool sticking into or scraping the work, instead of bringing off a fine shaving, look well to its position, and observe whether the edge is well placed on the axis of the piece. If it has been hitching in the work it is probably too low, if rubbing it, too high, and touches at some point below its edge. It is presupposed, of course, that the tool is made correctly as to angle of cutting edge. Do not lower the point by packing the end of the shank; pack the whole length or none. It is astonishing what a great difference is made to the cutting power of a tool by slight adjustments of this kind, and how smoothly a tool will work with proper attention to these details, which would otherwise be probably cast aside as unfit for the work. Hence the greater ease in managing a hand-tool. The hand feels the error, and at once, if experienced, corrects it by an almost imperceptible movement—slightly raising or depressing the handle or gently varying the angle sideways on the rest. When once the tool is found to cut as it ought to do, nothing remains but to turn the handle in the right hand, and thus cause the tool to progress steadily along the work from end to end. Then free it by a half turn of the other handle, reverse the movement until the tool has arrived at its old place, and having slightly advanced it to take a fresh bite, repeat the process until the whole bar is reduced to the required size. If the piece is slender and bends away from the tool, add to the slide rest a support; let it be fixed opposite to the tool, and it will keep the work steadily up against the cutting edge. It can be fixed (if a hole is made for the purpose) anywhere about the slide which traverses in the direction of the length of the work. It is well to drill and tap a few holes about the slide rest, and some along the side of the bed of the lathe. These will be found very useful at various times for fixing apparatus. For, be it observed, (and we shall recur to this with some practical hints by and by) the lathe may and ought to do many kinds of work beyond ordinary turning. It may become a machine for planing, slotting, drilling, wheel cutting, &c., and is to be pressed into the service of the jack-of-all-trades, without compunction.
When ordering a slide rest let steel screws and nuts be specified, and gun metal V-pieces, and let the parts be strongly made (too strong for the supposed work); for the latter may unexpectedly turn out to be sometimes rather heavy. We have found the top plate of a 3in. slide-rest so weak that when the tool was clamped on the top of it, by the screw of the tool holder, the slide itself became jammed; a defect quite beyond remedy, except by the substitution of a new and stiffer plate. The same advice may be given respecting the tools. Let these also be strong; neat and pretty tools are all very well, but you seldom see them in a workshop; you don't require pretty tools, but good and serviceable ones. Nevertheless, let the material be of the best quality possible; and that you may not be ever at a loss, you should learn to make tools yourself. Procure some small square and round steel bars; save up as directed your old files, and you need but heat them red hot (not on any account white hot), and with hammer and file shape them to your mind. Then temper to a deep straw colour, and after being accurately ground and finished on the stone, they will be fit to use upon any metal. The form of tool given as the best for slide rest work may be exchanged, when the bar is nearly turned, to the required size, for a fresh one, keen, sharp, and of an almost flat edge instead of point. A tool, of which the edge is a segment of a very large circle, will serve the best as a finishing tool, just to take off the lines left by the pointed tool. With regard to lubricating the work, we may observe that the chief object is to prevent the point or edge of the tool from heating and losing temper; oil, water, or soap and water will therefore answer, but it is a curious fact that oil will not produce so polished a surface as water will. We should advise in all cases soap and water. Soft soap is best, boiled in water, and allowed to cool. The drills with which the huge armour plates of ships six inches thick are drilled are thus lubricated, and instead of throwing out dust in a wet state as usual, these large drills fairly turn out curled shavings similar to those produced by the planing tool. It is by no means a bad plan to lay the shank of the tool which falls upon the top plate of the rest, upon a piece of leather, wood, or sheet lead. The surface of the iron, when planed and finished, is often too smooth, and the tool will sometimes slip from this cause, unless screwed unduly tight, to the detriment of the rest. By the above plan this annoyance will cease at once.
We will now say a word about hollowed work. Finishing a chuck will serve our purpose, and here be it advised not to go to much expense about chucks—get those which must be of brass in the rough, and practice metal turning by finishing them yourself. If no slide rest is available do it by hand. However, we are supposing the slide rest to have been procured, and may therefore proceed to use it. First you must drill the back part of your chuck as directed in a previous chapter. The drill is to be the size of the diameter of the hollows in the mandrel screw, that is, smaller by the depth of a thread, than the full size of the nose. Having drilled it, proceed with the most tapering of your taps, which we suppose to be provided to form the internal thread (external if your mandrel has female screw, in which case, instead of a drilled hole, the chuck will have a projection to be turned truly cylindrical, and a screw cut outside with stock and dies or chasing tool).
Follow up with the intermediate and finish with the plug tap. If you were careful to square up the shoulder, the drill having been likewise placed perpendicularly to the face of the chuck, the latter will fit truly up to the collar or shoulder on the mandrel. If not, you must go to work again, and square up the back of the chuck till a good fit is produced.
Now, if you have a compound slide rest—that is, one in which the slides turn on a centre pin—you can loosen the screws and turn it a quarter of a circle. If not, you simply put the tool into the holder, at right angles to its former position, so that the movement of that slide which is parallel to the lathe bed will become that requisite to advance the tool into the hollow of the chuck. Whichever way you set to work put in a side tool, like [Fig. 142], and, as it is a brass chuck, remember that the bevel underneath is to be very slight. Introduce the tool so as to take a light cut at first, until the roughness is taken off, after which you may cause it to bite more freely. Repeat this until the chuck is sufficiently hollowed out, when you may substitute a similar shaped tool, but with a flat or slightly rounded edge, to take off the marks left by the point tool. To finish the bottom of the inside you will require a tool which cuts on the end, but it should not have a perfectly flat end—at any rate, not until, by means of a pointed or small round-ended tool, you have cut away the roughness left from the process of casting. This has always in its interstices a number of grains of sand fused, and very hard and detrimental to cutting edges of all kinds. The point tools dig these out very effectually, and should always precede those of other forms.
Fig. 142.
The outside must be turned in a similar manner, and a hole drilled to receive a pointed bar or wrench, for the purpose of unscrewing it when screwed up tightly. To turn up a face plate of iron or brass proceed in a similar way, but commence from the centre with a point tool. This tool is the best for taking off the rough outside of hard wood, instead of the gouge, as well as for removing the roughness of a fresh casting. It is absolutely necessary that the faces of these flat chucks, or surface chucks, be truly at right angles with the mandrel; hence it is very difficult to turn and finish them by hand. We may here also state the necessity of knowing when the slides of the rest are at right angles to each other, without which no work can be turned correctly. It is necessary to ascertain this by help of a small steel square. Once fixed truly, it is only necessary to make a mark on the quadrant (which should be marked in true degrees), by which the same position can be found again at any time. We have spoken here of the quadrant—we mean the arc, or arcs with slot—allowing the circular movement of the compound slide rest. The chief use of these is to enable the workman to turn true cones instead of cylinders, which latter will only be produced when one slide is parallel to the lathe bed. Such is the common use of the slide rest; and it will be evident from these few remarks that there is an infinity of work, not only produced with ease by its aid, but which cannot, even with expenditure of time and labour, be produced without it; hence we advise this to be the chief ambition of the tyro after he has mastered the difficulties of ordinary hand turning (and not before). The cost of a fair one for 5-in. lathe will be £5, or thereabout. At Munro's, £7 or £8; at Holtzapffel's, £10 or £12. Both the latter are of course perfect.
We have directed to tap the chuck where it is to be screwed to the mandrel with a set of three taps, or to cut it with stock and dies if an outside thread is required. In both cases more true and satisfactory work may be produced by the chasing tool. We speak of the latter as used by hand; an account of cutting the threads by help of the slide rest we reserve for the present. Mount the work in any convenient way, either driving it into a wooden chuck, or by clamping it to the face plate if you have one. Now in this way you have advantages. In the first place you need not have a drill the exact size, though it is convenient to have such a one, and also a cylinder bit. You can drill and enlarge the hole by the slide rest tools, and you can also with the slide rest ensure the perpendicular position of the hole with respect to the end. Thus it is sure to fit up close and snug to the shoulder of the mandrel. When bored thus it will be in position for chasing. It is not difficult to chase a thread in brass, as it does not chip away like wood, but cuts clean and sharp. Follow the directions already given and you will succeed in a few turns in getting the tool to run. Then let it have its own way; hold it lightly, but steadily, and do not force it either to cut too deeply, or to advance too quickly; it will run along of itself after the faintest thread is cut or scratched, and the lathe can be worked by means of the treadle all the time as soon as you have attained the knack of dropping the chaser into its place at the commencement of its cut, and suddenly withdrawing it when it has reached the bottom of the hole. A chuck thus turned and screwed entirely in the lathe is sure to prove a good fit, and there can be no better practice than to cut screws in all your brass and boxwood chucks in this way. A very good chuck to hold flat plates of brass was invented by a Mr. Wilcox, of Bishop's Stortford, some years ago—an amateur of rare ingenuity and mechanical knowledge, and who made all his own apparatus for plain and eccentric turning. The chuck, [Fig. 143], as described by him in some unpublished manuscript, is made of boxwood, or may be of metal. It is a plain disc or surface chuck with three slots A B C. and a steel centre. This last must penetrate rather deeply into the wood of the chuck, but is only kept up so as to project from the surface by a spiral spring below it. Hence, when pressure is made upon its point by the application of the object to be turned, the pin recedes into the body of the chuck, suffering the work to lie flat on its surface. In the three slots are three screws, with nuts at the back of the chuck the screws pass through two pieces of brass, forming a pair of jaws, one of which is shown separately.