Figs. 1,2,3,4.
The part a, b, should be cylindrical, with a feather let in to fit a slot in the pulley shown in [Fig. 2.] This pulley, whether of hard wood or metal, is thus slipped on the mandrel as far as the collar d, d, and a nut e, screwed up tightly at the back of it, fixes it securely in its place, from which it may be moved if requisite and replaced without fear of being out of truth. This cannot be done if the mandrel is squared at a, b, and the pulley driven on with a hammer, as commonly done by inferior workmen. The part c, is made conical, to fit a hardened steel collar of similar shape. The angle of this conical part is of some importance, as if it is too small the mandrel is apt to jam and stick tight in its bearings. 35° will be found to work well. With regard to the length of this conical part, opinions differ considerably, but it must be remembered that friction is independent of the extent of the bearing surfaces and depends on the force with which they are pressed together (in the present case it depends on the tension of the lathe cord and the weight of the material to be turned), so that a tolerably wide margin may be allowed in this matter. Practically the question is decided by the thickness of the casting of the poppet head, which is regulated by the required strength and size of the lathe. The collar is sometimes of hardened steel, sometimes of brass. The latter would theoretically cause less friction than the former, but practically nothing can beat a well finished collar of hard steel. Collars of this material made by the original Holtzapffel two generations back are now as good as ever, perhaps even better. The centre, which screws up against the left-hand end of the mandrel, should be of the form shown in [Fig. 3]—a plain cylinder with a screw cut at each end to receive clamping nuts. The central part is rather larger than the screwed parts, and passes truly through the poppet head. This form is much better than a simple screw with points, as the latter is not likely to keep the line of centres in being screwed up into its place.
It will be found of great convenience to have the screw on the nose of the mandrel (and indeed all screws about the lathe) of standard Whit worth pitch, as taps for the chucks are thus readily obtained, and nuts and screws of the various sizes may be also procured to remedy breakages and losses. Upon this subject, however, we shall have occasion to treat more fully when we pass from the description of the lathe itself to the work that is to be accomplished by its aid.
The only form of back poppet that need be particularised is that made with cylinder and leading screw. The simple pointed screw passing through the lathe head tapped to receive it, not only requires no special description, but it is only calculated for lathes of the commonest design, as it is seldom that the line of centres is accurately maintained by the point at every part of the revolution of the screw. Moreover, the latter soon works loose in the poppet, and for anything like accurate work becomes speedily useless. The cylinder and pushing screw is indeed far superior to the form just alluded to, and where cheapness is an object it has its advantages over the first-named and best form. It is represented in [Fig. 4.] The cylindrical part is shown at B, and may have at one end the usual point, and at the other a small conical hole or hollow centre. It may then be reversed in its bearings at pleasure, or other cylinders with different shaped ends can be substituted, as may be found convenient. Of course the pushing screw A is for the purpose of advancing the cylinder, which is clamped by the small screw at C. The cylinder and leading screw are shown in detail in [Fig. 5,] which is the poppet head bored throughout to receive the spindle or cylinder A. At the right hand this bore is enlarged to form a recess, B, to receive the head of the leading screw, C. This screw is generally made with a left-handed thread, so as to withdraw the back centre when turned from right to left. The spindle A, A is bored, and a left-handed female thread is cut from end to end—this however is turned off at the place destined to receive the movable point or centre, and a hole slightly tapering is cut, or if preferred a cylindrical hole is made and tapped for the same purpose. The spindle has also a slot cut from end to end, into which a screw enters from the poppet, preventing the spindle from turning round while the internal screw is revolving by means of the small wheel and handle fixed to its right hand end. The spindle is now put in its place, the screw inserted and turned till the head or flange, C, rests in the recess before mentioned—a flat plate, F, is then attached to the back of the poppet by three or four screws, the head of the leading screw passing through its centre; the small wheel is then attached and the whole is complete.
Fig. 5.
It is evident that by turning the wheel the internal screw is put in revolution, and as it is prevented by its flange from assuming any motion in the direction of its length, the movable cylinder will instead be withdrawn or thrust forward.
This form of poppet is the best that can be adopted and is of general use in all first-class lathes. In addition to the movable point g, a flange similar to H should be fitted. This will be found of great use when the lathe is used for drilling, the piece of work resting against it, while the pressure is regulated by the leading screw.
There are, in addition to the flange and pointed centre, other pieces of apparatus that can be substituted, as occasion may require, and these will be hereafter described in this series. With regard to the common rest for hand turning a lengthened description is unnecessary. The T or tee should for wood turning be of the form shown in [Fig. 6] at A. It is often made as B, which is a very inconvenient pattern, as the cross piece on which the tool rests cannot be advanced sufficiently close to the work if the latter exceeds a diameter of two or three inches. For metal turning the top of the rest should be flat, and about one inch broad, as the heel of the hook tools used for turning iron must be able to take a firm bearing upon its surface. Sometimes a plate of brass is riveted on the flat top, as the tool takes a firmer hold on this metal, and when the latter becomes defaced and channelled it can be renewed without the cost of a new casting in iron. The turner should be provided with two or three tees for metal and for wood,—one may be long enough to have two legs and require two sockets, as shown at C. This is convenient in turning long pieces of wood,—a very short tee, not more than an inch in length, should also be provided, and if one tee is specially kept with a very level and smooth edge, it will be found of great advantage in chasing screws—indeed the latter work can hardly be managed at all if the top of the rest is damaged and uneven. The next part requiring description is the boring collar, without which even a hand turning lathe can hardly be considered complete. This boring collar is intended so to support one end of the work, instead of its being held by the back centre, as to enable the workman to get at the end of it for the purpose of drilling it. Suppose for instance the work in hand is a tool handle, and that it is so far finished as only to require the hole for the reception of the tang of the tool. If this is bored by hand with a gimlet, it is seldom that the hole will be truly in the axis of the piece, but when this is done in the lathe by the help of the boring collar the bore will be truly central, and the tool when in place will fall in the same line with the handle. This will conduce to the correctness of the work in hand more than the amateur or other workman might suppose, and a row of tools thus truly handled and in good condition generally bespeaks an efficient and careful artisan. There are several plans for boring collar of nearly equal efficiency, and we shall describe one or two of the most common, and also one invented by the author, and which, if carefully made, is of great service. [Fig. 7] represents a poppet head, B, which is but half the height of the other poppets of the lathe—a side view of this is shown at B, [Fig. 8.] Near the top of this poppet is a hole through which passes a bolt C, by which and its nut the circular plate A can be securely clamped in any desired position, as it revolves freely on the bolt as a centre pin. This plate is bored with a series of conical holes, which are so arranged that their respective centres will be in a line with the centres of the mandrel when any one of them is brought into a position corresponding with the line c, c. The hole thus brought into position for use (having been selected according to the size of the work to be bored), takes the place of the back centre; the end of the work rests in the cone, which is greased or soaped to reduce friction, and the rest being fixed at the other side of the boring collar, the drill can be readily used, and the bore afterwards enlarged if necessary with any convenient tool. This boring collar is generally made of iron, but a substitute of hard wood will frequently serve the purpose, and can be made by the amateur, who may be unable to obtain one of more durable material. If made of wood the best unguent will be soap or black lead, such as is used for grates, or a mixture of the two. This black lead or plumbago (it has no lead in its composition) will always be found serviceable where wood works upon wood, and also to give a smooth surface to wooden patterns for casting.
