[Fig. 269A] is introduced to show more clearly the result of the application of the first set of tools, or rather of the first application of the set, as the latter are used throughout.
The blackened part will be entirely cut away in this operation, the shaded part meeting it will be removed when the tools are transferred to the adjacent opening, the cuts meeting those first made. Hence the tools need only reach from a to b, and can be more easily introduced than if the curved part were longer. Gauges, [Fig. 269B], A, must likewise be made of thin brass or tin, that the progress of the work may be examined, and each opening in the sphere should likewise be measured with a gauge, or with compasses fixed to one width by an adjusting screw.
The proper chuck for this work is the capped ball chuck already described, by loosening the cap of which any one of the six openings may be brought under the action of the tool, these openings being, in fact, bored out simultaneously with the formation of the star. After the first point or ray of the star has been completed, the ball may be reversed and the opposite ray formed. These are now to be secured by plugs, which are to be turned conical, to fit the opening of the ball at one end, and of a length to rest upon the central cube at the other, being also bored out to fit over the rays, which they should embrace closely at top and bottom, even if not at the other points of its length. ([Fig. 269C], A and B.) This is to be repeated as each ray is formed, so that the central star may be held in place until the work is finished, when the plugs are removed, and the star will be entirely detached. The above-named tools being straight on the right hand side of the shank will not form a finished conical point or ray. Hence it is recommended to file away that side, so that when flat upon the rest, the back of the tool may be an exact counterpart of a ray, [Fig. 270, A]. There is, however, no absolute necessity for this, as the star point can be first made blunt, with perpendicular sides, which can then be neatly finished by a separate tool made for the purpose, and kept up to a very keen edge. The first and smallest of the set of tools here shown, is the one with which the flat sides of the cube are formed, and it must be bevelled from underneath, so as to present a cutting edge on the end. The curved tools should cut on the end and both sides of the crook.
Figs. 270A, 271.
It is quite possible to make the above in mahogany, but a closer grained wood is much to be preferred, as the tools used—which are held flat upon the rest—are rather scraping than cutting, and mahogany, and fibrous woods in general, cannot be thus worked neatly. Boxwood is, in every respect, the best material to begin upon, ivory and blackwood being reserved until the eye and hand have become accustomed to such work. The whole operation requires great care, and is rather tedious, but the result ought to be a sufficient reward. The external surface may, of course, be ornamented with the usual apparatus, but the star should be left clear and sharp. The edges of the openings should have a light beading, cut with a bead tool, [Fig. 271], A and B.
[Grooving and Mortising Small Work.]
Amongst the various purposes to which it is possible to apply the lathe, may be noticed the drilling out grooves and mortises, a method used in some of our Government arsenals, for cutting the recesses for the reception of the Venetian lath work in cabin doors. The same method is, of course, applicable to numberless similar cases, although designed for the special object named. The apparatus is shown complete in the drawing, [Fig. 272], and the component parts in the succeeding diagrams. A is a kind of compound slide rest, or vertical straight line chuck, having a movement in a direction parallel with the lathe bed at F; while the circular plate being pinned through its centre to a slide, H, can be moved up and down by means of the handle G. This circular plate can be set in any position, and has a projecting shelf or rest to carry the work, which is steadied by guide pins, as will presently be explained. The part F, has a bed similar to that of an ordinary slide rest, which is clamped to the lathe bed by a bolt and nut, as usual. This carries likewise chamfered bars, between which slides the horizontal plate to which the vertical part of the apparatus is attached. This is first a plate with chamfered edges, [Fig. 273] A, and a second similar but rather wider plate, [Fig. 274] B, with guide bars, likewise chamfered, to slide upon A. From the front of B rises a stout pin, on which the circular plate, C, turns, which can be clamped by a central nut, or otherwise, as in an ordinary compound slide rest. This nut should not project above the general level of the plate. On the face of the latter is, as previously stated, a rest, or narrow metal shelf, D, and pins, e, f. The plate may be variously arranged in this respect by substituting any kind of holdfast or guide, according to the work desired to be done by its aid. The upper slide is depressed by a hand lever acting on a pin fixed in the sliding plate, [Fig. 275]; or, if preferred, by a similar lever, with a quadrant and chain, or rack movement. The horizontal slide is worked by means of a stirrup for the foot, with cord attached, acting on a bell-cranked lever, seen in the first figure. To cut the grooves in a bar, for Venetian blinds—as described—the lath to be drilled is attached to a flat strip of thin iron, drilled with holes, [Fig. 276] A, as wide apart as the required distance between the grooves. It is then laid against the shelf, and the guide pins are made to enter the holes in the iron. The clamping nut of the round plate is loosened, until the bar is set to such an angle that the grooves to be cut will form vertical lines, [Fig. 276]. It is then clamped securely.
Fig. 272.