Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

Though there was here a collection of the best people of the city, there were but few fine-looking young ladies.

Saturday, November 25, 1865.

We were introduced to Captain Rudolf Julio de Balbi, inspector of the port (Guerdamor) of Santos, who speaks English, and went round the different parts of the custom-house with the party. This is a large building, which was formerly a nunnery, and though rather rude in its structure, answers all the objects of the government at this port, where but a small business is done, and yet with the prospect of doing an extensive trade at a future day. This gentleman took us in his boat to the arsenal landing, where the commander of the port joined us, and some of the party getting into his boat with the United States consul, we all went aboard of the Santa Maria. After paying this mark of respect to General W. W. W. Wood, these gentlemen took leave of us and returned to the shore.

Four hundred soldiers destined for the seat of war were embarked upon the steamer, and yet did not interfere with the cabin passengers. All were well-dressed, and seemed in fine spirits for the most part. A few, who looked rather pensive and lachrymose at parting with friends, were rallied by the others with much glee.

The drummer of the band, who was a mulatto, with spectacles, made a speech, in which there seemed to be a profusion of patriotism, and closing with vivas for the cause, and everybody and every thing associated with this regiment, he drew forth the huzzas of all around him. Music was next in order, and he belabored his huge bass drum with as much energy as he had delivered his speech.

One of the officers afterwards rose, and shouting at the top of his voice gave a series of vivas that were responded to by huzzas from the troops, and the whites, mulattoes and negroes all seemed alike exhilarated.

This doubtless changed the current of feeling with many who had left their homes reluctantly, and especially was it salutary for those who had been dragged forcibly into the service. Military duty appeals to the noblest elements of man’s nature, but when the endearments of family and the comforts of home are contrasted with the love of country and the trials of the campaign, there are many in every country who are disposed to shrink from the call to arms; and the scenes which have been witnessed of men being brought up with chains around their necks, is only an aggravated exhibition of what occurs in most countries engaged in war. Those who won’t do their duty voluntarily must be required to do it under coercion.

When we got upon the sea many of the officers and men became sea-sick, and with the usual want of sympathy on such occasions I observed one poor fellow, who was casting his dinner over the rail, had two or three on each side of him, who were jestingly going through the motions to taunt him for his weakness of stomach. There were women accompanying some of the men, but in what capacity is not known, and in some instances they were sick, with their heads resting against the breasts of the men, while in others the men were sick, with their heads on the laps of the women, who sat flat upon the deck. By the way, this is a very common style of sitting among the common and middle class of women in Brazil, using simply a piece of thin matting to keep them off the dirt floor. Upon entering the humbler class of houses you are likely to see, in a back room, women with only a chemise and petticoat sitting down in this way at work, who get out of view as soon as possible.

Sunday, November 26, 1865.

Our steamer entered the harbor of Rio de Janeiro about 7 o’clock this morning, and at the police station a boat was secured for us and our baggage, in which we came immediately to the wharf and thence to the Exchange Hotel. The total expense of boating and porterage for four of us was but $2.00; which was less than I had to pay for myself in getting from the steamer to the hotel in New York on my way out. The porterage allowed negroes in Rio by those who understand the terms upon which they can be secured, is very small, not usually exceeding five cents for a trunk or box to be carried several squares. But when these darkies find a man who does not speak the language, and consequently unacquainted with the usages of the place, they make up for their shortcomings on other occasions. When a boat or a porter is wanted, the best plan is to fix your price, and call out for some one who will serve you at the proposed rate, when the competition soon secures the service from some of the number that are present at these places on all occasions.