Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

Among the various specimens of cotton, those from the United States had precedence; yet there are several samples of cotton grown in Brazil which are nearly as good as those grown in the Southern States, and with proper culture this staple will doubtless be still more improved, as the climate is thought to be well adapted to its production.

There was quite a number of very fine specimens of coffee, the best of which were marked as being produced in Brazil. There is a great difference in the appearance of the samples from various sections of this country; and this goes to confirm the idea that many brands of coffee receive their names from the merchants here, or at the points to which they are imported. Persons of fastidious taste may thus have Mocha, Java, Laguayra, &c., &c., all coming from Rio, and yet leave a larger proportion to bear the appropriate name of this place. I know from personal experiment on one occasion, that deception in this respect is not difficult. Three specimens of coffee—the Mocha, Java, and Rio, so called—were all served in my house to a party of friends, and the vessels containing each specially noted by my wife. After the experiment of each, all the party concurred in pronouncing that which was known only to her to be Rio coffee as the best of the three; and were quite surprised when told that they had overlooked the supposed fine qualities of the other specimens. If they had been informed in advance what name was borne by each pot of coffee, doubtless the antipathy to Rio coffee would have manifested itself by condemning this article. But not knowing the quality contained by either of them, the verdict was rendered according to their real taste; and acting upon the suggestion, a bag of this was purchased, that proved to be really excellent coffee. I have met an Englishman here who says they don’t drink Rio coffee in London, and yet I am told that large cargoes are shipped to England.

After concluding our observations of the cabinet specimens, we made a tour of the general and special curiosities that are here gathered from all parts of the world. Several Egyptian relics in the form of mummies are here exhibited, and various antiquarian souvenirs from Pompeii[^[7]] and other places of historic fame. Many very showy garments used by the Indians of this country in by-gone days, and their implements for the capture of game, or for purposes of war, were presented for our examination and admiration.

I was quite interested in an immense living eagle, that attracted attention by frequently uttering a most harsh squall; and while other specimens of large birds show what they have been, this affords a present exemplification of vigorous animated existence. From the remnant of a chicken seen in the cage, I infer that the daily bill of fare is quite costly.

After leaving the museum, I went with Captain Buhlaw and his wife, in an omnibus, out on the line of railroad towards Tijuca, for a distance of four miles, and saw along the way many things of interest. This seems to be the most desirable portion of the suburbs of the city for the residences of private families, whose business does not confine them to the more densely populated streets. There is much taste displayed in some of the buildings and yards, and several really elegant improvements have been recently completed. The dwellings have, for the most part, large gardens attached, with a combination of the useful and ornamental, in the plants and shrubbery, rendering them quite attractive.

The majestic palm tree is seen standing in quiet dignity amidst the more unpretending and yet more useful growths of orange, banana, mamon, and the ajaca. This valley, lying between the mountain ridges on either side, is a level plain, with a clear stream of water running throughout its entire length. Much of the territory is not yet built up, and the lots are offered for sale by posting placards upon them, with the Portuguese words, Vende—se. This precinct is to the city of Rio de Janeiro what the vicinity of Central Park was to New York before its improvements were completed; and the day is not far distant when this route to Tijuca will become the most charming residence around the city. The soil seems to be well suited to the growth of vegetables, and I observed that they were receiving more systematic culture here than elsewhere, being grown, doubtless, for the market.

As the line of railroad to the small retreat of Tijuca is merely for the accommodation of persons residing there, and along the route, it affords most convenient and prompt transportation at stated hours, and thus makes the distance a matter of small moment to those living in this region.

Having learned that there would be preaching to-night at the Episcopal church, which is the only service in the English language in the city, I got directions to the place, and Mr. Mallory and I set out in search of it. By the use of an extemporized phrase of Portuguese, “Onde está Ygreza Ingliza?” I was enabled to find the house of worship. The service had already commenced when we arrived, and it gave an entirely orthodox exposition of the plan of salvation. The minister urged the acceptance of the Lord Jesus Christ, as our Saviour, upon all who had not yet laid hold of the promises of the gospel.

After leaving a land of Protestantism, and coming into this Roman Catholic country, it is very refreshing and edifying to be once more associated with Christians who hold the same great cardinal doctrines of faith with myself. This building is a plain substantial meeting-house, with none of the outward show of a church, and the interior presenting a neat but unostentatious appearance. There was quite a peculiar arrangement of the pulpit, at a considerable distance from the rear wall of the house, and elevated so as to require a sort of stairway for the ascent of the minister. The congregation was small, but consisting of genteel-looking persons; and, from their physiognomy, I concluded them to be chiefly English people, and certainly none of the Portuguese race. The minister impressed me very favorably by his simplicity of manner.

Notwithstanding that Mr. Mallory has been raised as a Roman Catholic, he remarked that this form of worship was more in accordance with his views of Christianity than the parade which he observed in the Catholic churches of this city; and that he expected to attend service with the Episcopalians, at this church, during his stay here. I find that none of our Catholics seem to have a favorable impression of the piety of their brethren of the church in this city; and they, consequently, manifest no inclination to hold fellowship with them in their ostentatious worship.