Saturday, December 2, 1865.
The arrangements upon the Santa Maria all proved very satisfactory to Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether; and the fare was in accordance with the usual good table of this boat. A state-room with four berths was set apart for Mr. Street in conjunction with us, making it a pleasant little family party. Of course we enjoyed a refreshing sleep, and rose to find ourselves approaching the city of Santos. Landing at 8 o’clock A. M., I proceeded immediately to see my friend Mr. Wright in regard to the measures for visiting the lands near Conceicão. Finding his breakfast at hand I joined him and his family, and he afterwards came with me to see the vicar (vigairo) of this district, who was acquainted with persons in that section.
He manifested much interest in the proposed visit, and said that there was a person in town from there with whom he would confer as to our trip. The aspect of affairs was not very promising for an early move, as this individual could not go to-day and did not know whether it would be practicable to go to-morrow.
In the mean time the other two gentlemen, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether, were quartered at the Hotel Milan, and I was a guest of Mr. Wright, while Mr. Street proceeded to São Paulo to arrange with the President for the means of defraying expenses on this voyage.
I dined at the house of Mr. Wright’s father-in-law, this being his birthday, and that also of the Emperor, which made it the occasion for quite a feast of good things.
After concluding the ceremonies of the table the members of the family all shook hands with each other, this being a custom of constant observance among them after dinner, even on ordinary occasions.[[22]]
Learning that there was a site for buildings with some lands attached, upon the seaside, which were offered for sale, Mr. Wright went with us to see the place. He supplied me with a horse, and the other two gentlemen were supplied from the livery stable. A young man was sent by the owner to show us the premises, and I observed that he was riding a mare, which is the first time that one has been observed in service anywhere in the country. In the stockgrowing region they are confined to trading, and there seems to be an impression that they are not suited for the saddle or for pack service, as the valuation of mares is much below that of horses.
After riding five miles through the hot sun we found a location which might, with a large outlay for improvements, become a very nice residence for a family. It is at a point where the serra approaches the water of the ocean, and thus getting the full benefit of the sea-breeze. The property includes a portion of the level low land with a portion of the elevated land, and there is a small clear stream of water running down the slope, which has been used in former days for the machinery of a sugar-mill. From the antiquated look of the relics, we might readily suppose that this was the identical establishment erected by Martin Affonso in 1533, to work the cane grown in this region from specimens procured in the island of Madeira. There is now only left the stone basement of the old building, but the stream still runs fresh and pure water that might again be used for some mechanical purpose, or for other domestic uses of a family.
Sunday, December 3, 1865.
We made a commencement of this day in the right direction, by going to church before breakfast, but it was not with any reverential intentions. We ascended the high hill, Monteserrate, to take a view of the large building there located, and to enjoy the wide extended panorama to be seen all around us. One old horse, that by some legerdemain had accomplished the ascent of this lofty pinnacle, and a few goats, as full of frolic and mischief as these animals usually are, constituted the companions to the rather dreary-looking inmates of the church building. It is only upon extraordinary occasions that this church is brought into requisition, and during my former visit to the city there was an illumination of the windows at night that presented a brilliant and captivating view from the plain below. We found the ascent of the steep and narrow winding way very fatiguing, which rendered a rest quite acceptable upon reaching the summit, and it was well calculated to recall the resting-place of the dove, from which this is named.