At length the covered cart or diligence of this Senor Ferreira was reached; and all hands being in good keeping for a lunch, the eatables provided for us at Santos were drawn forth. With a cup of hot coffee prepared by the inmates of the house where we stopped, and the bread stuffed with sausages, all were refreshed for the progress in the cart. This turnout for the transportation of persons along the beach is quite a novelty, both in mode of construction and in its being recently built for this express line. The wheels are made of hard wood and have no iron tire; but the axles are of iron, and the mechanism by which the front connects with the body is quite too complicated for description. The body is panelled, with seats extending along each side within, after the omnibus style. The cover is of cotton cloth which has been smeared with oil, but not serving to exclude water, as we had ample opportunity to testify. The three mules moved off at a fair gait under the frequent lashings of our German postilion; but after travelling eight or ten miles they became very dull, and their pace was so much slackened, notwithstanding the German’s antidote, that the progress was suspended for the jaded animals to recuperate their energies.
In the mean time Major Meriwether and I proceeded on foot, so as to relieve the mules of our weight when they might resume the advance. It was raining some and blowing considerably, but fortunately the wind came upon our backs so as to assist our progress. Any one who has ever been upon a sea-beach with a strong wind can fully appreciate the importance of having it to favor your course. With this firm level beach and a very light vehicle, with sails attached, it would have been quite practicable to keep ahead of these slow movers. Indeed the idea of a windmill attached to the wheels of a car upon a railway might be made available for running even against the wind. The cogs upon a trunnel head might be so adjusted as to work upon the cogs on the axles, giving them progressive motion; though the wheel of revolution by the wind should be turned to front or rear or to either side. If this suggestion could be applied to the stern-wheel of a small propeller, might it not be used to advantage in some circumstances? We know that windmills are used to draw water, and why not for turning a wheel in water in like manner?
This thought is original and perhaps novel; though it may have very little practical merit, let some one try the experiment and report the result, as the outlay for materials will be but small.
After walking four or five miles we found upon the shore a boat-shelter with a thatched roof, under which lay a large canoe. As this afforded some protection from the rain and wind, it was thought best to stop here and rest a while. A mulatto resident of the coast passed by our resting-place and said it was but two leagues (eight miles) farther to the village; but feeling inclined now to avail ourselves of the cart, we were not in a hurry to move forward. Major Meriwether observed a mulatto girl at some distance indulging her curiosity by looking at us, and supposing there must be a residence near at hand I rose and started towards her, when she left precipitately at a full run. Upon proceeding in the direction of her retreat I came upon the house or rather the shelter where the family resided, and asked for oranges and bananas, but was told that none were to be had in these parts. The only thing seen about the premises that could afford subsistence was a few stalks of mandioca; and the interior of the establishment displayed a meagreness of every thing that could contribute to comfort.
I learn that these people living along the coast depend chiefly upon fish for a living, and consequently they don’t trouble themselves much in cultivating the earth. Such things as are produced spontaneously or with little labor afford a scanty addition to their supplies from the water, and they care for nothing beside. One of these fellows had been engaged to carry our luggage before reaching the station where we took the cart, and he seemed nimble on the foot, with sufficient endurance, but this job would doubtless satisfy him for a week.
Being rested we set out afoot again, leaving a notice upon the sand, “We proceed,” and after walking two miles further, the cart was seen far to the rear. Not intending to concede that we were particularly anxious to ride, the march was continued until overtaken, which took us at least one mile more on our way. Thus we travelled on foot not less than fourteen or fifteen miles, and as the Major carried a considerable quantity of fat, with new boots that did not yield to the pressure, his feet were very much excoriated, or, as I put it, he had gum-boils on his heels.
The mules still made very slow progress, and it began to be a matter of concern whether they would take us to our destination; but a while after dark our escort announced that we were approaching the place, with the suggestion that a portion of the party should get out, and thus lighten the load through the heavy sand after leaving the beach. Upon halting opposite the store of our companion, several rockets illumined the dark regions above us, and reverberated in the stillness of this retired settlement, to signalize our arrival at Conceicão. After considerable delay we were shown to a house having nothing but bedsteads to cheer our vision, and told to make ourselves at home. A bottle of gin was the only relief to the wet, cold and hungry travellers, and as none of us had any particular fondness for this beverage, it was touched very lightly. I did not hesitate to ask for a fire, nor did I scruple subsequently to urge a more ample supply of fuel. But it was built upon an elevated scaffold, in a small room without a chimney, so that it was difficult to get any of the warmth of the fire, and the smoke pervaded every corner of the apartment, so that it was almost intolerable.
After so long a time we were served with coffee, and the remnants of our day’s lunch, which seemed to indicate that the resources of our chaperon were rather slim. But we were still further impressed with this fact when their flagmats and a single spread upon the hard boards of the bedsteads were provided for our lodging. We certainly had bed and board combined in this establishment, and a harder lot I never encountered in all my rough-and-tumble progress through the world.
A servant was directed to report to us for supplying any wants we might make known, but we were so nearly in want of every thing that it would have been an endless undertaking to have specified those things requisite for our comfort, so we determined that whatever a night may bring forth will be seen with the light of another day, and waited for something to turn up.
The reception afforded here by Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira differs so entirely from the good cheer of a Brazilian welcome, such as I have been accustomed to receive during my tour in the interior, that I have thought it proper to make a record of the details as an exception to the usual hospitable treatment extended to me by the people of this country.