Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

The prompt and definite hearing given to our respective claims impressed me very favorably with the business character of the minister, and his courteous manner lead us to entertain a high regard for him. Pursuant to a prior appointment, I called at the office of Mr. Milford to-day, to examine the papers pertaining to a tract of three thousand acres of land, lying near the Dom Pedro II. railroad, and within an hour’s run of the city of Rio de Janeiro. The price twenty-four thousand dollars, which makes it eight dollars per acre.

The place is represented as being under cultivation in rice and sugar-cane, and as having a fair outfit of farming implements, with cattle, for a limited sphere of operations. It is represented as adapted to the culture of coffee, cotton, corn, sugar-cane, and rice. I am further informed, by another party, that it is an old plantation very much exhausted, and every thing very much out of repair, so that it is not likely to meet the expectations which the glowing description in Mr. Milford’s hands is calculated to induce.

We called upon Mr. James E. Crenshaw, formerly of Richmond, Virginia, at the Exchange Hotel, during the afternoon, and had a very pleasant social interview with him. The past and the present of the South was discussed and considered, in regard to the future of our people in the midst of the circumstances by which they are surrounded. He said that he had been written to by many of his friends while in England, representing the many difficulties of their situation; but he had not been able to give them any advice as to the course it would be best to pursue at present. It would afford him much satisfaction to know what are the inducements presented to agriculturists in the interior of this country, and he requested me to inform him as to the result of my investigations.

We took a stroll this evening into the fashionable and showy business mart of Rua d’Ouvidor. This name implies a street of hearing, and was given originally from being the location of the courts for hearing and deciding litigated cases. It is, however, at present the street for seeing, and, with the ladies, for being seen. As those of elegance and refinement usually select the evening to do their shopping, this brilliantly illuminated thoroughfare affords the most favorable opportunity for an inspection of the better class of women. They may be seen making purchases, in the finely furnished store-rooms, or looking in upon the rich show-windows from the side-walks. These gaudy windows are not only supplied with extra gas-lights, but have mirrors on the outside, reflecting the dazzling brightness upon the articles for exhibition, and the glare is almost equal to the light of the sun.

My limited opportunity for seeing the ladies of elegance does not warrant the expression of any opinion as to their general appearance; but it is fair to infer, that some of those seen at different times and various places present the common characteristics of the sex; and there has been a marked deficiency of beauty on the part of those coming under my observation. I must allow, however, that they dress with good taste. There seems to be a partiality for black with ladies, as well as gentlemen, in this city; and both sexes are entirely free from that display of rich colors which is said to be characteristic of the Spanish people.

Gentlemen and ladies here manifest no disposition to ostentatious display, and yet seem to have a just appreciation of neatness and even elegance in their attire. The high-crowned slick beaver hat, which is vulgarly known among us as “stove-pipe,” is the usual head-dress of the Brazilian gentleman; and indeed this style of hat is generally worn by the respectable business men of the city. A slouch hat, such as is worn by business men in the United States, is not often seen here; and, though the panama hat is used by those who travel or go much in the sun, I have not seen a single specimen of what is called the tropical hat. In lieu of this cool and very appropriate style of hat, all persons who go out upon the street carry neat silk umbrellas to protect them from the sun, and to be used also in case of rain. An umbrella seems to be the “vade mecum” of a gentleman here; and if a friend finds you without an umbrella when going out from his house, he insists upon loaning one to you, so that it becomes a matter of courtesy to others to supply yourself with this accompaniment of almost all classes of men. This serves as a good and useful substitute for the walking-cane, or the riding-whip, so frequently carried needlessly by our people.

Tuesday, September 19, 1865.

This day has been devoted to looking round the city, and becoming acquainted with some of the prominent localities, in this extended area of widely-diversified scenery.

There are quite a number of conspicuous elevations within the corporate limits of the city, which are now occupied by private dwellings, and are considered the most desirable localities for families, both in regard to health and the pleasant breeze which reaches them, while the air below is close and warm. In the bay there are several islands, which afford desirable homes for families likewise; and on the margins of the water, around the borders of the city, there are many little nooks which afford quiet retreats from the stir and confusion of the business thoroughfares of the city. Botafogo and Praia Grande are among the most notable of these, and the former is especially captivating for private dwellings.

Across the water again is found the abode of numerous persons doing business in the city, besides constituting the residence of a considerable population, who belong to the place, and remain there permanently in various industrial occupations.