The population is about fifteen hundred, and the health is said to be very good.
The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded to take a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I could not resist it even when on my feet.
We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.
The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities, nor did we see any other fish at this place.
We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of Bahia, and I learn that there are many people in that section having a large admixture of the African blood.
The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark hue in most instances.
Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot sun or the tropical climate.
In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro element.
Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast, but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh eggs, would be acceptable.
Saturday, December 23, 1865.