This land lay remarkably level for the general character of the country, and yet none of it has ever been cleared up. Passing through this, the soil was of a dark aspect, with a clay basis, and, though sundry ravines interrupted the configuration of the surface, there was a great deal of land lying very favorably. Very little of it has been brought into use, but the few specimens of corn seen along the road presented a good appearance.
Upon approaching the place of Senor Pedro, a considerable river, São José, came into view; and he informs me that there is a water-fall of great extent, ten or twelve miles below, which is surrounded by timber, and yet has a road passing very near to it. This might be turned to account, should any one be tempted to locate in this drear and rude wilderness.
After our arrival, I accompanied Senor Pedro to examine his corn, and found it growing very luxuriantly—the stalks being, in most parts, ten feet high, and standing close upon the ground. His calculation is for thirty bushels to the acre, but it is likely to exceed that yield, if the earing is at all proportionate to the present prospect.
The country just at this place is very hilly, and there seems to be a great preference to the hillsides for planting, from the fact doubtless that the soil is better than on the level land.
There are pumpkin vines growing finely in this corn, and cucumber vines, and watermelon vines were seen in a patch near by growing well; yet none of them are sufficiently advanced to determine the result.
The few and isolated settlements seen upon our route to-day, as well as the one at which I am stopped, show very little regard for the comforts of life, or very little advance in civilized life.
If a picture of the interior of this domicil could be adequately portrayed, it would be a rich legacy to posterity, to dwell upon the meagre and filthy surroundings of this able-bodied family. In eating, the victuals were put on a towel upon a bench, and I occupied the only seat that was afforded by the establishment, while the fare was limited to farina, pork, and big hominy, with coffee.
I have looked at the bright side of society in this province, and now the opportunity is afforded to view and study another phase of the people; but the transition is sad to contemplate, and worse still to realize by actual participation.
The only redeeming feature about the place is a few very fat hogs in the yard, and there has not been seen anywhere more fat on an animal than covers one of these hogs.
The mules are also in fine condition, and most excellent travellers. What is out of doors meets the requirements of life very well, but enter the house and all is squalid wretchedness and beastly slovenliness. The people fare worse than the brutes.