At the place where we stopped to eat our cold dinner, called Esterão da Pedro, a pretty article of farina was made from the rice, and Senor Miguel tells me the same is prepared at his house.
This article is used in its simple state or prepared in different forms of bread. It is likewise used as a powder for the skin, and relieves irritation of the surface in this warm climate. The rice is largely used by all those people along the banks of the Ribeiro, and with fish constitutes most of the food of many of the inhabitants. To this mode of living is attributed the swarthy, lean, and haggard look of the population in many places we passed; but there is little doubt of the local influence from the lowlands adjacent to the river having much to do in causing this impoverished and sickly appearance of men, women, and children. All parties concur with Senor Miguel in stating that there are but few cases of disease of any kind in this region; yet there is a want of stamina in the constitutional structure that indicates something unfavorable to health, and I should not like a location so low down on the river, or so immediately upon its margin.
Thursday, January 11, 1866.
Not being able to make the return trip, we stopped for the night at the house of Senor Bento José de Morais, and spreading our bedding upon the floor, remained until this morning. Taking a cup of coffee, we resumed our ascent of the river at an early hour. The notable rock of the horse (Pedra de Cavallo) soon came into view, and being on the dividing line between Xiririca and Ignape, is a point of some interest.
It stands in the middle of the river and is supposed to bear a resemblance to a horse.
Stopping at a house upon the bank of the river to eat the supplies brought along for our breakfast, a clean place could scarcely be found to spread our table-cloth. Senor Miguel proposed to the occupants to remove some things from a table for our use, and such a nest of cock-roaches as was broken up by the proceeding has rarely been seen in a private dwelling.
As the mahogany-backs were scampering off in all directions, my friend gave me a significant look, and when an opportunity presented, spoke his opinion of the slovenliness and laziness of the people.
We were joined at the place where we spent the night by Senor José Antonio de Silva, who has a small place above Xiririca, and he states that the average crop of coffee from his trees is eight (8) pounds per tree, and that he has gathered from one isolated tree as much as thirty-two (32) pounds in one year. He says the crop in that neighborhood is sure and of good quality.
It rained heavily during the afternoon, but we were thoroughly protected by a covering of raw-hides.
Friday, January 12, 1866.