Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas (fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid, (half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night; and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our means.

Thursday, September 28, 1865.

Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the tailor shop. All the trimmings will be furnished, and coat, pants, and vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress; and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable; consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and some of them of large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in the present regime.