The gigantic and towering spire of rock, known as the Sugar Loaf mountain, first attracts attention in nearing the city, but all must realize that it fails signally in its resemblance to the conformation of a sugar loaf. In one position, when nearly opposite to it, as our vessel passed into the harbor, the proportions of a cone with a regularly defined outline were somewhat striking, but in all other situations it simply presented a huge peak of rock, upon the left of the immediate entrance to the city. There is also another conical peak upon the right side, and though not in exact opposition to this, they serve as immense pillars, constituting the portals of this maritime metropolis of the world.
The atmosphere had become sensibly cooler during the night, and it was observed in approaching the harbor that the thermometer had descended to 70° Fahrenheit, for the first time during the voyage. The temperature from 20° north latitude, to 20° south latitude, varied from 80° to 85°, but it has gradually fallen since passing 20° south latitude, until now, in 22° 56′ and west longitude 43° 09′, we have the very comfortable temperature above mentioned. Early this morning my overcoat was found very agreeable, and this state of the atmosphere is in striking contrast to all the representations ever received as to the climate of this region. Indeed, the temperature has not been oppressive at any time during the voyage, except for a few days after leaving New York; and instead of the sultry atmosphere which was anticipated in passing the equator, a pleasant breeze was at all times prevailing. It is highly probable that this influence of the sea-breeze may not be so sensibly felt in the city and harbor of Rio, which is locked in by mountains upon every side, except the narrow entrance to the harbor between the lofty cliffs.
Upon approaching this gorge-like opening of the mountains from the sea, we get a distant view of the shipping, and that portion of the city immediately upon the margin of the water.
A large fort called Fortaleza da Conceicão is seen upon the right, projecting out boldly into the water, while on the left an extensive range of neat and commodious barracks is seen at a considerable distance, between two elevated projections formed of land and rock. Upon getting opposite the fort, an officer upon the ramparts called out to know from what port our vessel came. The captain replied, “From New York.” The officer called again, “How long out?” to which the captain answered, “Fifty-one days.” The call was made through a trumpet, and our flag being English,[[1]] the language corresponded to the supposed nationality of the vessel; but I confess that it would have required good guessing to divine what was said, and the captain’s answers were made according to his preconceived idea of the questions that would be asked at this place.
We now observed ahead two other forts, one to the right having the appearance of being formed from the solid stone, while the other on the left seemed to be constructed of hewn stone. Each of these works had quite a number of guns of small calibre placed in barbette, while the large fort was arranged with casemates, as well as embrasures in the ramparts.
In addition to these structures for the defence of the harbor, there were several works visible upon the cliffs on either side, which might serve to annoy, and even damage, the vessels of a fleet, without being in any way liable to injury from the hostile guns. The known efficacy of a plunging shot could be brought into operation from these elevated positions, while the gunners would not only have exemption, by the difficulty of elevating guns to reach such a height, but are effectually protected against an enfilading fire by the peaks of solid rock which flank these works on each side.
Our bark came to anchor shortly after passing the forts, when a custom-house officer and an officer of the police came aboard, to get the manifest of the vessel and report of her passengers. We gave up our passports and reported our baggage, with the understanding that it had to be taken to the custom-house for examination, previous to its going ashore.
This official, who examined our passports, could not converse in English, yet asked each man if he was single, which I supposed was to elicit information whether there was any one under his charge on the bark, and answered in the affirmative. The captain, observing the mistake, stated that he desired to know whether I was single or married, when my entry was changed to correspond to the responsibilities of a family. These officials were very polite in their demeanor towards us, and shook hands with all upon leaving.
The captain now had his boat lowered and took the other passengers and myself with him to the city. It being late in the afternoon, and nearly two miles to the wharf, our four oarsmen had a stiff pull, to take us with that despatch which was desired, to secure time for business on shore.
We passed through the shipping which lay in the outer bay, and immediately past the guard-ship, so that it might be seen that nothing was taken ashore in the boat. Upon nearing the wharf, we encountered a large number of small boats manned by negroes or Portuguese, and a few by the sailors from the different vessels in the harbor.