Since leaving the mountain range, this side of Jundiahi, the nature of the soil and the general configuration of the surface has undergone a gradual change, with a better adaptation to agricultural purposes. The dark reddish or brown color of the earth, which predominates in this region, is considered to be of volcanic origin in some former period of the world, and called “terra rocha.” It is found to be especially well adapted to the culture of coffee, and likewise well adapted to the growth of corn and beans, while the experiment made thus far with the cotton plant promises also an abundant yield. There is, however, a somewhat sandy level soil in parts, interspersed with these dark red lands, which present to my view very favorable indications for the culture of cotton, and the experience of planters will soon develop whether the former or the latter can be cultivated to best advantage in this crop.
At 9 o’clock A. M. we arrived at the magnificent fazenda of Commendador José Vergueiro, known as Ybicaba. He gave me a hearty welcome in the English language, and told me any thing and every thing in his house was to be used as my own while it might suit me to remain with him. In extenuation of his imperfect use of the English tongue, he said that he had told Mr. Bennaton in Portuguese, of his desire to accommodate me, and he wished me to make known through him any thing I might want.
I was very much pleased to find here, also, Senor Henry Whitaker, who speaks English well, and my sojourn here is likely to be relieved of much of the embarrassment of intercourse with others. The lady of Commendador Vergueiro does not speak English, but seems very kindly disposed, and very dignified in her manner.
We reached here just in time to join the family at breakfast, and after a ride of eighteen miles I enjoyed the tender and fat beefsteak, with nice wheat bread and coffee, in connection with the other supplies of the table. There was such a variety of articles for breakfast, and every thing in such excellent order, that it could not have been much improved by notice of our coming. After concluding breakfast, Mr. Whitaker, Mr. Bennaton and myself, indulged a walk round the garden, where quite a variety of fruit trees were seen growing in the greatest perfection. The orange, the pine apple, and also the peach, were among the number. A specimen of the genuine tea-plant was also seen here, but there was only a few plants, and no attempt to cultivate it for use of the family or for market.
Between 3 and 4 o’clock P. M. dinner was announced, and we had a most sumptuous feast of good things. The absence of fowl of any kind was again noticed, and turkeys, ducks and chickens are evidently not so much prized here as with us. Big hominy, of the whitest and nicest form, is used here with boiled milk as a dessert; and though very different from our mode of using the article, it is very good in this way. I told Mr. Bennaton that it would be more relished if fried, or eaten with gravy, as a part of the substantials of the meal. But he said it would surprise the people in this country very much to see the canjeen, as it is here called, eaten in that mode; and I therefore conform to the custom of the land, and take it as dessert with milk or syrup.
In the afternoon we walked out to the colony of Germans, French and Portuguese, located upon this place. I counted one hundred and sixty-four tenements for families, and learned that there were thirty-six others occupied, making two hundred families. They are here engaged to gather the coffee from the fields, at fixed rates for each bushel, and have a house with a small parcel of land, upon which to grow a little corn or other articles for themselves. They live in the most saving manner, with a view to accumulate enough to buy a place and live upon it, and the interior of their houses seemed to have a scanty outfit.
Monday, October 9, 1865.
Before leaving my room this morning I asked the servant for water to take a general bath, saying, “Fraga me agua, para lavor,” to which his reply was an interrogation, “Quente ou frio?” (warm or cold,) and I said, “Quero frio,” (I wish cold.)
Thus my acquisitions in the language are beginning to avail me, and I trust in a short time to be able to make known all my ordinary wants.
We set out before breakfast to make a survey of the extensive establishment for treating the coffee, which is run by steam-power.