Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

I was referred to Mr. G. N. Davis, No. 92 Rua da Direita, for directions to the office of Senor Don Galvão, the official agent of colonization, and when he was informed as to my wishes, I was pleased to hear his proposition to accompany me whenever it might suit me to make the visit. Mr. Davis also said that he could provide a room over his store for Mr. Mallory and myself, and we will eat at the restaurants, until something further can be learned as to our movements.

I met to-day at the store of Baldwin & Co. Dr. Henry C. Bosworth, who gave me information in regard to various matters of interest, and tendered his services at any time that he could be of any assistance to me. He is from the United States, and practised dentistry in this city for a number of years very successfully, but has now retired from that business, and has an interest in the ferry company, which promises to be a very profitable investment.

It is the impression of Mr. Mallory that Dr. Bosworth will render him very important aid in getting into business, and from his courteous manner, and his general intelligence, I would expect him to have considerable influence among the people and the officials of this country.

We were likewise introduced to a Mr. Smith, who came from Virginia some five years since, and has been engaged here in railroad contracts, which he says have proved advantageous to him. He accompanied us to one of the public gardens of the city, where we saw a variety of rare birds, among which were a pair of large white swans and a large black swan, with some water-fowls of a beautiful red hue and very graceful form. In the fish-pond we were told there was an immense specimen of what is known as the ox fish, that feeds upon cabbage and various other vegetables; but it did not come to the surface, and the water being muddy at the time, we failed to get a sight of this curiosity.

Mr. Smith now has a contract with the city improvement company, who are employed by the government to arrange sewers, for all parts of the city, by underground drains, which shall take every thing to receivers at the margin of the water, and there undergo a process of disinfection and purification.[^[5]] In connection with this, it is contemplated, likewise, to construct a privy upon each man’s premises, whether he may desire it or not, and thus make amends for the total neglect of this household arrangement in by-gone years and even at the present time.

As a substitute for privies, chamber-pots or wooden stands of various forms and capacities are used in all the private and public houses of the city. These are emptied daily or at stated periods, and the contents carried by negroes in wooden cans, upon their heads, after dark, and emptied into the harbor. By the use of coal tar in the vessels kept in the houses any unpleasant odor is to a great extent prevented; yet the whole programme is disgusting, and the people may well congratulate themselves upon the new order of things which is inaugurated by this city improvement company. At present it is a common practice for men of all classes of society to urinate upon the side-walks, in the most fashionable and most frequented streets of the city, and the stench in passing some of the recesses that are most frequently resorted to is such, that it is a matter of surprise to learn that there is no public ordinance forbidding this offensive nuisance.

We returned in the evening with the captain, and found the atmosphere more pleasant upon the water than in the crowded thoroughfares of the city. I was particularly struck with the beautiful display of the gas-lights of the city, as seen from the deck of our bark. The precise and distinct lines of light along the margins of the water formed a pleasing contrast with the irregularities of the winding ways upon the hillsides, and the dazzling points to be seen here and there in the private grounds. To appreciate fully the rare beauty of this view, it is proper to state that the city of Rio de Janeiro was originally located in a cove, that is surrounded by elevated hills, and these again having a bordering range of mountain cliffs.

At the present day all these lesser hills are occupied by residents, and here many of the finest houses and most tasteful grounds of the city are arranged, one above another, to the very summit of these elevations. It is upon these slopes that the gas-lights present such an interesting display, when viewed in the quietness of night from the shipping in the harbor. The lamps upon the vessels, moving gently to and fro under the swelling of the waves, are seen in every direction around, like so many fire-flies filling the air; but the glittering lights of the city present more the aspect of brilliant constellations, and were viewed with that kind of satisfaction which is felt in looking upon the firmament in a clear night. While I sat upon a coil of rope contemplating this scene, the deep-toned bells of the city sent forth a sound, that was faintly echoed by the numerous bells of the many vessels striking the passing hour; and apart from this, all was serene and quiet in the bay and city.

The busy stir of vehicles upon land, and the moving hither and thither of boats of all grades upon the water, which is so characteristic of this centre of commerce and trade during the day, all ceases at night; and rest or recreation is the recourse of the laborer and man of business, while for the student comes meditation.

Thursday, September 14, 1865.