Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were preparing to retire to bed. Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave, and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed. This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation. Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken, and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day, in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment. When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel, and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane. The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, and not apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin. Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture of coffee has not been introduced for a length of time to test its qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe, however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile lands.