Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

We had for supper, this evening, a portion of the large fish called the Jahu, from which the river and town derived their names. It is a huge fish similar to our catfish, though the head is not so broad in proportion to its size, and the meat tastes more like that of scale fish. All relished it very much; and, though we had fared so well at breakfast and dinner, the Jahu tempted us to eat heartily.

We had an opportunity of examining, to-day, one of the large lizards of this country, called “lagarto,” and there is nothing to which it can be better compared than a young alligator of two and a half feet in length. The resemblance in its conformation to one of our small, gray lizards is almost perfect, and the flesh is said to be very fine, but its appearance is too suggestive of the class of reptiles for my taste. This specimen was caught by a servant, and brought into the house, for our inspection, while still alive. Many of them have been seen in the woods during our tour, and they are said to be inimical to the poisonous cobra, engaging and killing the snake whenever it is encountered. The large number of these lagartos, and the few cobras, that are found in our exploration of the forest, would favor the idea that the former have established the mastery. In this view, the lagarto should be preserved from injury, and, most assuredly, something more inviting can be found for food.

The lagarto has a forked tongue like a serpent, and thrusts it out in the same manner when disturbed. It is stated, also, that during the winter months, though there be no frost, they live in a state of torpidity after the mode of reptiles.

Monday, November 6, 1865.

In accordance with previous arrangements, we were all supplied with fresh animals by the fazendeiros of the neighborhood, and set out for Sapé and the river Tieté. Reaching the fazenda of Senor Paulo Lima about eight o’clock, after a ride of twelve miles, we found that he expected us to stop and take breakfast. Though his house and the surroundings did not present a very promising aspect, yet we found, in due course of time, a most excellent meal was served to us, and all were highly pleased with the plain courtesy of our host.

The lands lying between the Freguezia de Jahu and this point are located upon either side of the river Jahu, and rather irregular in general conformation. They are, for the most part, of a deep red color and of firm consistence, with more or less of the fudra de ferro, constituting the best quality of terra rocha. The Figeré Branca and the Pon d’Alho are conspicuous in most parts of this territory, and indicate the fertility of the soil.

Throughout this region, which includes a number of old settlements, and others of more recent date, much of the matto virgem (original forest) has been cleared off, and open fields of large extent are either in cultivation or in pasture for the use of horses and cattle.

The Rio Jahu pursues a very tortuous course, with frequent falls or rapids, and offers advantageous situations for machinery at various points. It runs into the river Tieté about sixteen miles from the town of the same name, Jahu; and the lands on each side of it, throughout this extent, are of the best quality; yet the steep hills and rather mountainous elevations of the precincts unfit some of the lands for proper cultivation. These high and irregular portions of ground would be very appropriate for coffee, as the hillsides and elevated lands are usually selected for this crop; while the low flat lands in this section are liable to some frost in the cold season.

I am informed that the quality of the soil is equally good to the distance of three leagues, or twelve miles, on the north side of the Rio Jahu, and to the distance of two leagues, or eight miles, on the south side. In this extensive area there are a few small patches of less valuable land, but in the main, it will be found that the soil is of the deep red color, or of the dark brown order, and lying in many parts very advantageously for cultivation.

After breakfasting we set out again, and passing the obscure capella of Sapé, we travelled sixteen miles to the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose, where we were expected by previous notice from our friend the old Colonel. Though the house was small, and the resources for accommodating so large a number rather limited, yet he manifested a disposition to do all in his power for the comfort of the party.