Hunting a home in Brazil

by James McFadden Gaston

With the good spirit exhibited by our host we all tried to be satisfied, and though it was quite different from the comforts received at other places, he evidently did the best which his resources would allow.

The meals were abundant and well prepared, with another large Jahu fish to grace the table. As I had brought along some tomato catsup, it was drawn forth on this occasion to give a zest to the fine fish, and the entire bottle was consumed.

In connection with this, I have transported likewise from the outset, four cans of tomatoes, two cans of mutton, and one can of partridge, thinking that we would find ourselves in some situation where the necessaries of life could not be obtained; yet we have had no occasion to use them, and will not perhaps have need for them anywhere.

After an early breakfast, I set out with Dr. Warne, Dr. Wissen, Messrs. Brown and Kernan, accompanied by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, as our escort and guide, to visit a portion of the lands lying between us and the Rio Jaceré. This river was stated to be about sixteen miles distant, and thinking it would be impracticable to make the trip to the river, and return, I proposed to make a circuit, so as to return by a different route from that upon which we went out. Passing some grounds under cultivation shortly after starting, the corn and beans with sweet potatoes gave fine promise of the coming crop, and the lands in this vicinity are evidently of good quality; but after passing some miles farther, there was an inferior grade of soil with occasional indications of barrenness.

We made a halt at the house of Senor Ignacio Borgia Pedrosa, where wine and coffee were served. Some large oxen in the front of the house showed that the grass had nutritious properties, while some mares and colts running at large presented a good appearance. Subsequent to this our escort took us to the residence of Senor Candido Pereira Barbosa, but as he was absent, and we did not wish to wait for dinner, we accepted the tender of coffee, and made a lunch of sardines and cheese which had been brought to meet our necessities. Upon riding into the fields we saw some young coffee trees growing from the seed. They were two years old and looked flourishing; but with great diversity in size, resulting probably from a deficient stand when first planted, and requiring to be replanted. No estimate could be made as to the result in maturing of the coffee trees.

The lands here were of a reddish aspect, with a considerable portion of sand, and presented a favorable appearance under cultivation; but the soil is not equal to that of the lands adjacent to the Rio Jahu; nor were any of the lands seen upon our route of the first order. For the most part the surface was gently undulating, and this general tableau was supplied with a variety of excellent timber, among which the quarenta was observed to grow of full size, and abundantly.

The supply of water was confined to small branches or runs, that might be made available for a monjolo, or perhaps for a small grist-mill, but not adapted to machinery on a large scale. The largest stream traversing this section of country was stated to lie somewhat beyond the line of our route, and this may present more favorable conditions for water-power. So far as my personal observation goes, the Rio Jahu is the only reliance for the location of machinery anywhere convenient to this territory.

We had quite an adventure in the attempt of Senor Camargo to ascend a tree to gather some jaboticabas for us, and it had well nigh proved a serious matter. The body of the tree having no limbs for some distance up, he climbed as far as his strength would permit, and being unable to reach the limbs, or even to sustain himself in his grasp upon the smooth surface of the tree, he let loose and slided down most precipitately. He then secured a pole to the side of the tree with sipo, and going to the top of it had another handed up to him, which was secured above in like manner, and thus he succeeded in getting us a delicious bait of the fruit.

We returned by way of Sapé, which, though it has a few small houses in close proximity, should not be recognized as entitled to a name. In going up we passed this place without giving it a special notice; and some of the party were not apprised that any place claiming a name had been passed. It is simply a collection of some half dozen dirty hovels, and yet has a shop, at which a thirsty gentleman in our party found he could get a drink of cachaça, and stopped us to look at him go through with the performance. The patron saint of this humble refectory was a corpulent Frenchman, who had recently bought a considerable tract of land in the neighborhood, and was holding it upon speculation. He doubtless thought a good time was coming, when he was informed of our object in visiting this section, and declined to sell even at an advance of two millreas an alqueric, or sixteen and two-thirds cents per acre.

At the most remote point of our trip to-day land was valued at forty cents per acre; while here, at Sapé, it is estimated at eighty cents per acre; and between this point and Senor Lima’s one hundred dollars per acre is the price affixed. In the vicinity of Jahu two hundred dollars an acre was the valuation put upon a tract of land, which was equal to any in the country, and thus the standard prices of this section may be considered as fairly stated above, upon the authority of landowners.