Coffee was growing here in great luxuriance, and one single tree was pointed out to us which yielded over one arroba (which is thirty-two pounds) at a single crop. The trees were unusually large, and hence had the appearance of being too crowded in most parts of the field.
Several patients were prescribed for at this place, and I was impressed with the ingenuity displayed in a truss of domestic manufacture, which was worn by a negro man, laboring under hernia. Of course, no charge was made for advice anywhere, while enjoying the generous hospitalities of the people, though they frequently asked for my bill, when services were rendered, as at this place.
The sun was oppressively hot during the latter part of our ride to-day, and this was followed by a shower of rain just as we arrived, but it was slight, scarcely laying the dust. The country is suffering from need of rain, and that topic, which ordinarily is regarded commonplace, becomes now one of great interest to travellers as well as planters. While we find the dust from a large number of animals occasionally troublesome, the heat is of course more intense when the earth is dry and parched than it would be if some evaporation was taking place from a damp surface. Still, however, we do not find travelling in the heat of the day attended with greater inconvenience than during the summer in the Southern States, and we are now approaching the hottest season of this latitude. It would be preferable for those exploring this country to travel early in the morning and late in the evening, and the arrangement of hours for breakfast and dinner could be made so as to lie by during the entire hot portion of each day, with greater comfort to man and beast.
A sumptuous lunch, brought by Senor Domingos, was eaten with oranges, upon stopping to-day, and was followed by coffee furnished at this place. It will be seen that these people know how to provide for the inner man. A dinner of most ample proportions was served at six o’clock, and all had to rally their appetites again.
Saturday, November 11, 1865.
After taking breakfast at an earlier hour than usual, we left the fazenda of Senor Francisco, accompanied by him and his father-in-law, Senor José Venancio.
This old gentleman seems determined to make amends for his absence from home when we first visited his house; and, in response to a letter of introduction which I delivered to him, he said that he stood ready to aid us in any way we might command his services. He said that in the event our people should conclude upon coming anywhere in this region of country, to give him notice, and transportation would be provided free of cost to as many as he could find mules to accommodate, either of his own or other parties.
My attention was attracted this morning by the peculiar yelping of a large bird of the ostrich order, which I endeavored to get a sight of, but being very shy, it ran away and was concealed in the thick shrubbery of the campo.
We passed the small stream Rio Onca (tiger river) and the large and clear water-course Rio Lobos (wolf river), where a small piece of matto virgem (original forest) of good quality was entered, which was the only relief to the extended campos, until we approached near to the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Firmino de Oliveiro.
Here we stopped, and were regaled with an ample supply of jaboticabas, that fruit which, once eaten, no one can ever fail to enjoy. Having dined in a very substantial way with this gentleman, some of the party concluded to remain there with General Wood for the night; while I came with others to the city of Rio Claro, in the midst of a considerable fall of rain.