Thursday, November 23, 1865.
A nephew of Senor Bento, who resides upon the Fazenda Bananal, joined me this morning in riding across the mountain, to take a survey of the forest land lying upon the slope and crest of this elevation. I saw a few places in which corn was growing very satisfactorily, and after reaching the top of the ridge, found a portion of the ground whose configuration was more favorable for cultivation, though most of it lay quite irregularly.
There was nothing worthy of further notice save a most beautiful lake, far above the surrounding country, enclosed by hillocks, and having a dense forest lying upon one side. It is fed by a number of small rills, and perhaps also by internal springs, while there is but one outlet, forming a large stream, which has a most picturesque cascade at a short distance from the lake. This placid lake, which is known as “tanque grande,” with the bold stream leading from it into the forest, and then dashing down a rocky gorge, presents the most attractive feature of this fazenda. The lake is said to be very deep, and contains a large number of excellent fish. It might become very profitable as a place for the culture of fish, to supply the market of São Paulo, as the outlet could be so guarded by an iron grating, or a network of sipo, as to prevent the escape of even small fish over the fall, and the fish could be caught with the hook or other modes of capture on a larger scale.
If the gentlemen and ladies of the city should desire recreation, they could find no more pleasant resort than this lago bonneto upon the mountain top, and close the day with a fish-fry in the adjoining grove.
This attractive spot is evidently not appreciated as a specimen of the beauties of natural scenery, and few, perhaps, excepting those rude and unlettered inhabitants of this mountain region, know of its existence. Should a traveller in Switzerland encounter such a rare combination of beauties as is presented here, it would be sketched with the greatest interest, and portrayed in the most enthusiastic terms by the lover of nature. It is a quiet, clear sheet of water, about three hundred yards in length, and about two hundred yards in width, with the outlet as stated, running into a dense forest. The lands around it have been cleared up for cultivation, and run down with a gentle slope on all sides to the margin. The vandal hand which cut away the primeval growth around this lovely spot should be held responsible for constructing a terraced walk around it, and beautifying it with the choicest flowers and evergreens, so as to compensate for the loss it has sustained in removing the grove.
Though I could not praise the soil, I expatiated in all the variety of terms my vocabulary would afford, upon this exquisite water-scene, yet my matter-of-fact companion met my eulogy by the grave and business-like interrogation, whether I was sufficiently pleased with my examination to buy the fazenda, to which I was forced to give a negative reply.
As I returned to the city with Senor Bento, we stopped at the house of his brother, Senor Bonifacio, at the Fraguezia Conceicão, and there enjoyed a bait of jaboticabas from the trees that grew in a field near by. While in the house, a servant was ordered to do something in which café and laranga (meaning coffee and orange) was heard, and supposing these articles were being ordered for us, I excused myself from taking coffee in the best Portuguese available, when lo, it turned out that the words simply referred to securing our horses in the grove near the trees of the above name. Thus it is that an imperfect knowledge of language gets one into difficulties on every hand.
The sun being very hot, I was kindly supplied with an umbrella by a gentleman who joined us in the ride from this place to the city, and though he was thus left unprotected, there was no alternative but to accept it. These people are frequently very self-sacrificing in their courtesies to others, and though it has been said to me that their civilities are only the outward show of politeness, I must say to their credit, that nowhere can there be found more of the reality of accommodation, and hearty readiness in rendering any required aid, than among the people of this province.
Upon reaching São Paulo, I found that our baggage had been sent to the office of the diligence to be forwarded to Santos, and tickets were secured for us to proceed to-morrow morning.
Friday, November 24, 1865.