In mulls, which may be made of any kind of wine, the essential feature is the boiling. Sugar and spice, of which the nursery song tells us little girls are manufactured, are also invariably used in mulls. We give a rhymed receipt for mulled wine, not for the sake of the poetry, which is indifferent, but for that of the cookery, which is not bad.

“First, my dear madam, you must take

Nine eggs, which carefully you’ll break,

Into a bowl you’ll drop the white,

The yolks into another by it.”

Here the poet was evidently hard pressed for a rhyme.

“Let Betsy beat the whites with switch,

Till they appear quite frothed and rich;

Another hand the yolks must beat

With sugar, which will make them sweet.”