"The Riding Habit simply, with the black velvet cap and white feather, is, in my opinion, the most elegant dress that belongs to the ladies' wardrobe; there is a grace and gentility in it that all other dresses want; it displays the shape and turn of the body to great advantage, and betrays a negligence that is perfectly agreeable. This fashion was certainly first invented by a woman of taste; and I am pleased to see the ladies in general so well reconciled to it. It argues something like good sense in their choice still remaining; and she who makes her whole actions most conformable to that standard, will always be most secure of conquests and reputation."
Perukes were an highly important article in 1734. Those of right gray human hair were four guineas each; light grizzle Ties three guineas; and other colours in proportion, to twenty-five shillings. Right gray human hair Cue Perukes from two guineas to fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark cues: and right gray Bob Perukes two guineas and an half to fifteen shillings, the price of dark bobs. Those mixed with horse-hair were much lower. It will be observed from the gradations in price, that real gray hair was most in fashion, and dark of no estimation.
The following extracts will describe the dresses of 1735: "On his Majesty's birth-day, the Queen was in a beautiful suit, made of silk of
the produce of Georgia; and the same was universally acknowleged to excel that of any other country. The Noblemen and Gentlemen wore chiefly at Court brown flowered velvets, or dark cloth Coats, laced with gold or silver, or plain velvets of various colours, and Breeches of the same; their Waistcoats were either gold stuffs, or rich flowered silks of a large pattern, with a white ground: the make much the same as has been worn some time, only many had open Sleeves to their Coats: their Tie Wigs were with large curls, setting forward and rising from the forehead, though not very high: the Ties were thick and longer than of late, and both behind; some few had Bag Wigs.
"The Ladies wore flowered silks of various sorts, of a large pattern, but mostly with a white ground with wide short Sleeves, and short Petticoats: their Gowns were pinned up variously behind, though mostly narrow. Some few had gold or silver nets on their Petticoats, and to their Facings and Robings; and some had gold and silver nets on their Gown-sleeves, like flounces: they wore chiefly fine escaloped laced Heads, and dressed mostly English. Some few had their hair curled down on the sides; but most of them had it pinned up quite strait, and almost all of them with powder, both before and behind. Some few had their heads made up Dutch, some with cockades of ribands on the side, and others
with artificial flowers; they wore treble escaloped laced Ruffles, one fall tacked up before, and two down, but all three down behind; though some few had two falls tacked up, and one down before. Laced Tippets were much worn; some had diamond Solitaires to hook them together; others had their jewels made up bows and ends. Those without Tippets had mostly very broad-laced Tuckers, with diamond Necklaces and Ear-rings. Diamond Buckles were much worn in the shoes both of the gentlemen and ladies. Lord Castlemain made a very splendid appearance among the young noblemen in a rich gold stuff Coat; as Lady Harcourt did among the ladies, in a white ground rich silk embossed with gold and silver, and fine coloured flowers of a large pattern."
The Editor of the London Evening Post has whimsically described the dresses then prevailing, under the character of Miss Townley, in one of his papers for December 1738, who observes: "I am a young woman of fashion, who love plays, and should be glad to frequent them, as an agreeable and instructive entertainment, but am debarred that diversion by my relations, upon account of a sort of people who now fill, or rather infest the Boxes. I went the other night to the play with an aunt of mine, a well-bred woman of the last age, though a little formal. When we sat down in the front boxes, we found ourselves
surrounded by a parcel of the strangest fellows that ever I saw in my life; some of them had those loose kind of great Coats on, which I have heard called Wrap rascals, with gold-laced Hats slouched, in humble imitation of Stage-coachmen: others aspired at being Grooms, and had dirty Boots and Spurs, with black Caps on, and long Whips in their hands: a third sort wore scanty Frocks, little shabby Hats put on one side, and Clubs in their hands. My aunt whispered me, she never saw such a set of slovenly unmannerly Footmen sent to keep places in her life; when, to her greater surprize, she saw those fellows at the end of the act pay the box-keeper for their places."
Claret-coloured cloths were considered as handsome suits; and light-blue, with silver button-holes, and silver garters to the knees, was very fashionable between 1740 and 1751. In the latter year a trunk containing these articles was advertised, which will be found to differ but little from some already described. "A scarlet tabby Negligée trimmed with gold; a green tabby Petticoat trimmed also with gold; a white damask Negligée, trimmed with a blue snail blond lace, with a Petticoat of the same; a silver brocade silk Negligée trimmed with pink-coloured silk; a white fustian Riding-habit turned up with blue, and laced with silver, a Petticoat of the same, and a Waistcoat trimmed also with silver."
When our present Queen landed in England 1761, she was habited in a gold Brocade with a white ground; had a Stomacher ornamented with diamonds; and wore a Fly-cap with richly laced Lappets. Such was the then female British dress, which her Majesty adopted in compliment to her Royal consort's subjects.