Plain of Taeeta—Fezzan Boundary—Fossils—Tuarick Behaviour—Valley of Tabea—Observations—Fasting—Tuarick Habits—Scorpions and Locusts—Visitors—Heat—Roads—Hot Wind—Pass of Abulaghlagh—The Palace of Demons—Wheat hid in the Desert—Land of Demons—Kasar Janoon—A dear Camel—Visit to the Kasar—Perilous Adventure of Dr. Barth.
On the 8th we pursued our course over the monotonous undulating plain of Taeeta, to which we had descended. It was a little hotter, because lower than yesterday; and the country is more parched, more arid, more desolate, than ever. No herbage for camels is found in these parts, and we had been compelled to carry some with us from Wady Haghaneen, and to wake up with dates, of which the camels ate voraciously as a treat. Beetles and lizards were the only living things we saw.
Next day, the 9th, we rose before sunrise and made a good day of nine hours, still over the same plain of Taeeta. About three hours before we reached the well of Tabea we crossed the real boundaries of the Fezzanee territory, although the Tuaricks seem to claim the pass on the mountains as their own. The weather was hot, there being no wind. On these occasions the afternoons are very oppressive, and the sun causes his power to be unpleasantly felt until an hour before sunset.
From the plain to-day we had a view of the Ghât mountains, which seem at a distance to present different forms and characters from the high lands on the edge of the plateau of Mourzuk. The bed of the undulating plain of Taeeta is covered with pebbles and blocks, of both sand and limestone. Yesterday I picked up some fossils of the star-fish—the fixed star-fish, having branches by which it holds to the bottom of the sea. Some fossils of vegetables were also found. Two or three hours before reaching the well we descended rapidly into a broad, deep wady, where were the recent marks of a waterflow. The camels all went well, ours faster than the Targhee; but these latter, not being allowed to stray, always make, as a rule, better and more regular journeys.
The Tuaricks themselves are getting more civil. Hateetah already enters into the idea of a treaty of amity and commerce: he says he will fix the amount the English merchants are to pay when they attend the mart of Ghât. The son of Shafou is always represented as a very good fellow; he is growing more and more civil and companionable. This evening I gave him a small pair of good scissors, which much delighted him. As for the other Tuaricks, Hateetah excepted, I make it a rule to refuse what they ask, otherwise I should be annoyed every day with their importunities. Hateetah says we must lodge at Ghât with Haj Ahmed, the governor, outside of the town, to be out of the way of the begging Tuaricks. He adds, "Always keep the door shut, and when any one calls out for permission to enter say 'Babo,'—(No one at home!)"
The Germans, like myself, find the fatigue too great to enable them to continue their observations and writings with regularity. We must not be extravagant of our health and strength at this early period of our expedition.
The valley of Tabea is a pleasant place, having herbage for the camels in abundance, as is the case wherever the ethel-tree is found. There are several wells with water near the surface, and others might no doubt be dug all over the wady. Our encampment looked picturesque this evening. It is the eve of Ramadhan, and our people fired shots here and there to celebrate the occasion.
10th.—A halt was arranged for this day. I took the opportunity to wash and change all my clothes, which I do every three or four days, if possible. Mr. Hateetah, however, would not allow me to carry on my domestic arrangements in peace. He came grumbling as usual, wanting scissors, razors, &c. I cannot fill this craving abyss to the brim. Our people fast to-day; but to-morrow, probably, they will not, as the law does not require them to do so when actually travelling.
I have left Doctors Barth and Overweg to take the compass-direction of this route. To do this when with them would be useless for me, but when I leave them I must then do all the work I can. Now, it would be only accumulating on my shoulders useless labour. Besides, they will always do this kind of thing much better than myself. The same observation applies to the thermometer. It would be well, however, if I practised taking observations with them. But we are all sufficiently worked, and can assist one another but little in these matters.
The wind has been variable for the last three days,—in the evening, generally N.E. In the afternoon it begins to move round, until it blows from all the points of the compass. To-day we have hot wind or gusts of wind. It has been very hot, 105° Fahrenheit under the tent.