Whilst we were parleying with them, a troop of about forty men, mounted on their fleet maharees, and equipped for war with spears, shields, and swords, came trotting rapidly over the hills, hallooing with wild cries, and challenging our caravan to battle. When the first few moments of surprise had subsided, two-thirds of our caravan, armed with matchlocks, pistols, and swords, advanced in a body, and shouted out that they accepted the challenge. This bold movement staggered the assailants, who forthwith began to waver and retire. They had evidently expected to overawe us by boasting. Our people, satisfied with the effect of their manoeuvre, retired slowly towards the encampment. Presently a small body of the enemy advanced as a deputation, demanding to parley, and declaring that they did not come to fight against people of their own faith. The remainder pretended to march and countermarch along the hills on either hand, as if to hem us in completely, but kept at a respectful distance. They saw that we were too strong for them, but called out that they would go and fetch more people.

The conferences were now fairly opened, and we found that the hostile troop was composed of a collection of all the Sheikhs of the neighbouring districts, with their followers, and several regular bandits, countenanced by a Shereef Marabout. Our people understood at once that the affair was far more serious than they had anticipated, and began to be downhearted. They knew that they could not proceed without their camels, and from their expressions and looks I could foresee that the matter at last would have to be ended by a compromise.

The enemy made various propositions, more or less agreeable to our ears. The first was simply that we, as infidels, should be given up to be put to death—an idea which, luckily, nobody seemed to consider proper or feasible. They then insisted that we should pass on no further, but should return by the way we had come—also declined. Next, they demanded that we should become Muslims—a proposition which our people refused even to mention to us. Finally, they coolly asked for half our goods and baggage,—no doubt their ultimate object.

When they found that we would not agree to any of their proposals, but were determined rather to resist by the strong hand, a compromise was agreed upon. We paid them in goods to the value of three hundred and fifty reals, or about fifty pounds sterling, in order to get back our camels and be allowed to proceed. Even then, however, our caravan lost nine animals; so that the Kailouees suffer more even than we do. We were obliged to put up with all this, and were glad enough when the Shereef Marabout at length professed himself satisfied, and volunteered his protection for the future.

A wild and lawless set are these borderers of Aheer. The gathering was evidently a spontaneous one of all the blackguards of the country. Even the marabout complains, that during the expedition he has lost his burnouse, carpet, and fez, whilst he was saying his prayers, pious man! and beseeching for strength to overcome the infidels! He was on his knees, when a fellow of his troop came softly up behind, appropriated his things, mounted his camel, and fled away—"whist," he says, like the wind, and was soon out of sight, and appeared no more. By the way, the three Azghers were frightened, or corrupted, in the morning, and went over to the enemy. They change sides with fortune; and when some shots were fired by the enemy, by way of bravado and to expedite the conferences, one of their muskets was brought into play, and of course my powder! I am happy to reflect, however, that they got none of the booty this time, and have "'filed their minds" for nought.

As soon as we got back our camels we proposed to, move on, our people evincing the greatest anxiety to get away from a place where such disagreeable things had happened. We accordingly marched about two hours, the marabouts accompanying us, and then pitched tent for the night. Sinister rumours, however, were still about, like a flight of ill-omened birds, and it was said that another troop of people were collecting further on to intercept our passage to Soudan. During this halt, grave conferences were held between the Kailouee merchant, En-Noor, and the marabout, on the subject of these fresh reports. It turned out that there were several people in the neighbourhood who were dissatisfied that they had not shared in the booty, and might prove troublesome. About thirty reals' worth of things were accordingly selected for them.

25th.—We started before daylight, and advanced about nine hours, pitching tent in the afternoon at three. Our people are in better spirits, anticipating the termination of the journey. However, we are not yet free from cause of alarm. The Tanelkums, our companions, begin to show symptoms of discontent, and in the evening I was obliged to make presents to the whole of them. They have certainly worked hard for us, and suffered much anxiety on our account.

Our course this day lay towards the mountains of Tidek, which form our southern horizon. The country was a perfect desert. There was nothing now to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps a few tholukh-trees of gigantic stature. We did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside, sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of hasheesh. Our camels greedily devour the luxuriant bou rekaba.

26th.—As usual, the caravan was got into marching order before daybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealed to us that we were still watched by the hostile population. Three men, mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation. We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady of Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge tholukhs were covered with a multitude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or trailed down towards the earth. This valley runs winding round about the group of Tidek mountains, which have long been in view. They say that it abounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades that opened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the forest stopping to gaze at us as we passed. We discovered, however, only three black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,—the first I have seen wild in Africa. They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads and necks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our people did not attempt to chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise suffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached the well of Anamghur, where we drank some good water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky bed of the wady. A group of five asses had been driven down to it to drink.

As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead. A person of consequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us. He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be our protection. We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it appeared from his report that there were more people collecting to attack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils. In the evening we encamped in an open space clear of the trees, where we could see all around us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely were we established when a troop of fifty men came near in a threatening manner, but did not attack us. After dark, they increased to about a hundred. They consisted of the sheikhs of the districts, with their followers and lawless men scraped together from various quarters. Meanwhile our escort, who were anxious for their own safety as well as ours, had sent on to the City of Marabouts, Tintaghoda, and had prevailed on several of these holy men to protect them and us. The night was spent in conference instead of in repose. The hostile Sheikhs told our marabouts that they did not come to harm us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel had ever, or ever should, pass through their country. This proposition was at once, as a matter of business and profession, approved of by our protecting marabouts. What priest ever shrunk from the prospect of a conversion?