The inhabitants of Damerghou are said to be a mixture of Kohlans and Tuaricks; the latter, however, receding into the interior. But if the Tuaricks have dispossessed the Kohlans, they have almost become Kohlans themselves, forgetting their own language and their own customs and manners. This would naturally result from their habit of taking female slaves from Soudan. Women, of course, always teach their children their own language. In this way the population becomes in a few years amalgamated, the blacks with Tuaricks.
17th.—We stopped here all day, occupied with Bornouese. The place is pleasant enough, there being a good well of water. A little temporary village stands near, composed of the women and children belonging to the salt-caravan.
18th.—We halted again another day. After this rest of three days for the camels, we are to go on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the temporary village, principally to see the women, taking with him the Mâlem Ibrahim. He was pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the first specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an excursion of an hour to a neighbouring eminence, where I had a view from the top of a quartz rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills and valleys. On the east and west were ranges and groups of mountains; on the north-east and towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the mountain of Baghzem, the country appeared open. North and south were rocks. In the direction of our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and at wide distances, so I expect we shall soon bid farewell to the mountains of Aheer. The celebrated mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock, not high, but apparently of immense breadth. The town of Baghzem is on the western side, and out of our route.
I had a little clandestine transaction with Madame En-Noor to-day. She sent me cheese and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves brought the cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the Sultan was not to know of it. But they say that all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently, the milk and cheese; but the camels to the men; some women, however, have camels. There is a sort of division of male and female property in this country.
CHAPTER VIII.
We continue our Journey—Huntsmen—Gum on the Tholukhs—The Salt-Caravan—A Bunch of Gum—Games among the Slaves—Baghzem—Trees—Palm of Pharaoh—Deserted Villages—Birds' Nests—Wife of En-Noor—Unan—Lizards—Bad News—Christmas day in Africa—Christmas-boxes—Begging Tuaricks again—Bargot—Musicians—Speculations—Tribes at War—Parasitical Plant—Importance of Salt—Animals—Agalgo—Force of the Caravan—Beat of Drum—Approach the Hamadah—Giraffes—Poisoned Arrows—Ear of Ghaseb—Soudan and Bornou Roads.
Dec. 19th.—We started early, and journeyed on eight hours and a-half—the best day we have had since leaving Tintalous. Our course still towards that immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem. We are now encamped along its side. We crossed a large wady with ancient-looking trees, having antiquity, in fact, stamped on their trunks, all of the tholukh species. The sand of this desert is covered with the footsteps or marks of the gazelle and hare; but we saw only one gazelle and one hare. The gazelle was followed by a stupid mongrel-bred dog; it jumped high in the air, and was soon out of sight. The Kailouees are no huntsmen. I question whether they have ever caught a gazelle or any full-grown animal in their lives; they are a stupid set, and their dogs worse still in field-sport, though always living in the desert. There are huntsmen amongst the Haghars. The Kailouees prefer running down men, or rather women. All they think of is riding or straying from place to place after the women—this is their sport.
This may be called a country of dry wadys. The name is appropriate all the year round, except on the few days when the floods are seen pouring down these seeming beds of rivers. Hereabouts are the largest tholukh and other trees found in Aheer. Those that grow on high ground are small, but from their trunks are picked off, by the slaves, pieces of gum. To-day, however, I could not succeed in getting a piece. What was found was carried to En-Noor. I shall soon get a taste of it. We continue with our same number of camels; no other detachments of the large salt-caravan have yet joined us. En-Noor is still very active, riding before and behind, seeing that all is right. He is followed by his shadow. He wears his yellow burnouse. I have heard of no town on this side of Baghzem.