It is now said, his highness goes first to Tesaoua. We start all to-morrow, at any rate. The bells which cover the horses are without clappers, but being close together they make a great jingling noise by dashing one against another. Suppers were brought this evening, but the singing and dancing were not continued. We had, however, at sunset, a visit from a Hazna dancer,—a perfect specimen of African buffoonery and jingling. He danced and sung with the wildest barbarity. He had two followers, to pick up the offerings of the people. They beat two pieces of stick together to the motion of his legs, hung with bells. The upper part of his body was naked, whilst the lower part was covered with a red and yellow apron. This man is said to drink beer, and is a professed pagan.
I went to the wells, which are bored through the hard red clay, in the shape of small circular holes, of about fifty feet in depth. There is very little water at this season, but it is sufficient for the wants of the village when the salt-caravan is not here.
The inhabitants of Damerghou consist of Kailouee Tuaricks—Bornouese runaways and slaves—Haussa people, free and slaves—Bousa, or the descendants of Tuaricks by slaves, and a few Fullanee. This is also the refuge of dethroned sultans, as well as runaway slaves. There is now here the Kailouee prince called Maaurgi, who exercised authority some years since in Aheer. Damerghou, indeed, appears to be common ground, where every one who pleases, and is strong enough, comes to establish himself. Many runaways, freemen from Bornou, who had committed some misdemeanour, being found in this country weak and unable to protect themselves, were reduced to slavery by a Tuarick prince. The slaves here answer to the serfs of Russia, with the exception that they may be taken away and sold in other countries.
10th.—The morning was cool because of the wind. They held a souk, or market, to-day near us. Provisions were very cheap. I was greatly amused to see the small quantities of sunbal which Mahadee had laid out for two zekkas of ghaseb. For myself I was much plagued by the women, who all admire my beard; not, certainly, my red nose, which is terribly scorched and peeled by the sun.
Overweg visited the dethroned Sultan of Asoudee, who is living here in state, in the midst of his slaves. He holds a sort of court, and, contrary to the free customs of the Tuaricks, he permits slaves who approach him to prostrate themselves and throw dust on their heads. He is the uncle of the present Sultan of Asoudee, and is called Masouarji. In his fallen condition he gave Overweg a hospitable reception, and a present of dates, which was duly acknowledged.
Yusuf, refusing to do some translation which I requested him, now forfeits all claims to my service. I told him, to-day, to go off to Kanou. Afterwards I arranged with him to go with me to Zinder, where, before the governor, I hope to get clear of him; for he is now of little use, and costs me more than all my servants together.
Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm; but, nevertheless, this chap continues to improve since the arrangement made, by which he becomes only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however, are still afraid of him. Yusuf is trying the same system with me, but will probably find that it will end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee and Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil all our people. The liberated slaves from Tunis, brought up by me, have turned out the best and most faithful servants. I am much pleased with this.
All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with ophthalmia, which is said to arise from the winds that prevail constantly over this open and unsheltered country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by drinking ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough. The Moorish and other merchants attribute the greater part of their diseases to drinking water,—especially the fevers. How much truth there is in this assertion is not easy to be determined.
11th.—It has been agreed that I and my colleagues should here part for a time, Dr. Barth going to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and Maradee, whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder. Dr. Barth promises to be in Kuka in two months; and Dr. Overweg says he will immediately correspond, that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter has the more difficult journey before him; but even Dr. Barth's visit to Kanou may turn out a more serious business than perhaps he anticipates. We took leave one of the other with some emotion; for in Central Africa, those travellers who part and take divergent routes can scarcely count on all meeting together again.