A brief description of Seringapatam and its environs may not be amiss here. This capital of Mysore, (though Mysore itself, distant nine miles, was, prior to Hyder’s usurpation, the seat of government,) is an island in the midst of a continent, charmingly situated, and surrounded by the Cavery river; distant from Madras 296 miles. It is about four miles in length, and about one mile and a half in breadth across the middle, where the ground is highest, whence it gradually narrows, and falls toward the extremities.[[10]] At the west end there is a fort of very considerable strength, about three miles in circumference, mounting at least 190 pieces of cannon, including what were on the cavalices. Its appearance, at about three miles’ distance, was calculated to strike every beholder, being distinguished by magnificent buildings and ancient pagodas,[[11]] contrasted with the more lofty and splendid monuments,[[12]] lately erected in honour of the Mohammedan faith.
At the east end of the island is the pettah, or suburb, called Sanagangam, which was finished while we were there; it was beautifully laid out, about half a mile square, divided into regular streets, all very wide, and shaded on each side with trees, surrounded by a strong mud wall. It was designed for merchants and troops, and possessed all the beauty and elegance of a country retirement, and was dignified by the mausoleum of Hyder. They were about erecting a new and magnificent palace in the year 1787, the last time I ever saw it but one, which will be noticed hereafter. We were all mustered before Hyder, in his palace, once, but not seeing much of the interior, I am not competent to give an accurate description. It is a very extensive building, flat-roofed, with two wings, one of which is his seraglio, and the other his treasury. The front of the palace was an extensive open place, supported by strong pillars, where the killadare and his retinue sat to administer justice; the palace door being about four yards behind them. Four beautiful Arabian mares, two elephants, and two palanquins, were always in waiting when Tippoo was in his capital; but he approved of the latter mode of conveyance most: I never saw him on horseback, and only once on an elephant. In his person he was majestic, about five feet nine inches and a half in height, with large eyes, an aquiline nose, and remarkably broad shoulders; his complexion was about two shades lighter than quite black. In short, he must have been a very powerful man, though in my opinion, contrary perhaps to most, not possessing any great portion of personal courage. I have never seen but one striking likeness of him since I have been in England.
I was an eye-witness twice to his games, once before the peace of 1784, and once after: the former will, I doubt not, be long remembered by our gallant Sir David Baird, and many more of our officers, who were then Tippoo’s prisoners, and in irons. The circumstance I allude to will be presently mentioned, after I have endeavoured to describe his performances. These games were something after the manner of the Pythian or Olympic, and continued ten days without intermission. After the usual preparations were arranged, which consisted of a strong rope network, attached to stanchions fixed in the ground, forming a semicircle in front of his palace, different descriptions of beasts were brought in, viz. elephants, tigers,[[13]] buffaloes, and rams; then followed his getiees, men who, being trained from their infancy to fighting, were wonderfully active and strong; these were seated in different groups, having come from different schools. The games commenced with the rams, perhaps thirty or forty pair each day; their mode of fighting is well known, and therefore needs no description: they would fight ferociously, but were seldom suffered to be completely conquered. This being over, the getiees would be sent for, who always approached with their masters at their head, and after prostration, and making their grand salams, touching the ground each time, they would be paired, one school against another. They had on their right hands the woodguamootie, or four steel talons, which were fixed to each back joint of their fingers, and had a terrific appearance when their fists were closed. Their heads were close shaved, their bodies oiled, and they wore only a pair of short drawers. On being matched, and the signal given from Tippoo, they begin the combat, always by throwing the flowers, which they wear round their necks, in each other’s faces; watching an opportunity of striking with the right hand, on which they wore this mischievous weapon, which never failed lacerating the flesh, and drawing blood most copiously. Some pairs would close instantly, and no matter which was under, for the gripe was the whole; they were in general taught to suit their holds to their opponent’s body, with every part of which, as far as concerned them, they were well acquainted. If one got a hold against which his antagonist could not guard, he would be the conqueror; they would frequently break each other’s legs and arms; and if any way tardy, Tippoo had means of infusing spirit into them, for there were always two stout fellows behind each, with instruments in their hands that would soon put them to work. They were obliged to fight as long as Tippoo pleased, unless completely crippled; and if they behaved well, they were generally rewarded with a turban and shawl, the quality being according to their merit.
There were, at this time, two men of prodigious size and strength; one, who was called the nabob’s getiee, from Madagascar, challenged the other, whose name was Yankertramen, from Tanjour, to fight with creeses.[[14]] This being made known to Tippoo, he ordered the latter into his presence, and asked him if he would fight his getiee with a creese. He immediately answered in the affirmative, prostrating himself at the same time; when ordered to rise, he humbly solicited that Tippoo would take care of his family, should he fall: in which he being satisfied, creeses were brought, and one was delivered to each; this attracted the utmost attention of, I suppose, not less than 20,000 spectators. All eyes were bent upon these two powerful men. They stood fronting each other for the space of ten minutes; the nabob’s getiee looked terrible at any time, but more particularly so now. He was not so stout as his opponent, but he was daring, and appeared sure of conquest. Tippoo watched them narrowly, to ascertain if any symptoms of fear were shewn, or if either of them would decline the combat; but finding them both staunch, his heart, perhaps for the first time, relented, and he graciously ordered both of them presents, and to withdraw, and be friendly with each other.
Outside the semicircle, there would every day appear a man on lofty stilts, with one of the Company’s uniforms on; at one time he would seem to take snuff, at another tobacco; then he would affect to be intoxicated; in short, it was intended as a burlesque on the English, and to make them appear as ridiculous as possible in the view of the numerous spectators.
This being over, the tigers and buffaloes would be introduced, the former in large boxes, as they were caught in the jungles.[[15]] The largest had generally chains round their loins. I have seen one of these last-mentioned tigers defeat nine buffaloes, each of which would have been an overmatch for the fiercest bull I ever saw in Europe. He was chained at the time, though he had full scope to reach his antagonist. Many of the smaller ones were let loose singly on the pulligars, or pikemen. One of these fierce creatures, although he had twenty or more pikes in him at once, broke them, and sprung over their heads, killing one man, and wounding two others. It appeared singularly strange to us, that this tiger and another, which made their escape out of the ring by surprising efforts, should both of them make direct for the prison in which our officers were confined. The brave Captain Baird,[[16]] now Sir David Baird, was there at the time, with many more of our unfortunate officers, who, no doubt, if living, will remember this circumstance.
Towards the close of the evening, would follow eight or ten pair of these getiees, either of whom, had they one of their own holds of our first-rate pugilist, would soon make him cry for mercy. In the evening the elephants would be ordered in, when there would be lying on the ground, a dozen or more supposed dead tigers.[[17]] The business of these elephants was to trample on them, which the keepers could not compel many to do, though they inflicted severe punishment on the refractory. The stoutest elephant always appeared to me to be very uneasy at the sight of a tiger! These games were concluded every night with fireworks, some of which were superlatively grand and curious, exciting at once our astonishment and admiration.
At length, the fatal 1784 arrived; and now we had the painful knowledge, that our destiny was irremediable! A peace was concluded with Tippoo by the East India Company, and we had the mortification of seeing numbers of our officers and men marched out of the fort for Madras, while we were cut off from every hope of ever reaching our country or our friends. The humane reader will be able to appreciate and judge of our feelings under those trying circumstances. For my own part, it preyed upon my mind for three months, to such a degree as to reduce me much; and I can positively say, I never went to sleep till nature was completely worn out and exhausted with grief and tears!
One morning, we were all sent for in a great hurry, and seated on the ground in front of the palace. An hour elapsed, during which period hope and fear alternately succeeded. A few were quite sanguine that we were going to be released. Vain imagination! We were escorted under a strong guard to Mysore, nine miles from the capital, where we were separated, and sent to different prisons. The spot I was in, was the fatal place where Captain Rumney, and Lieutenants Fraser and Sampson, had their throats cut;[[18]] and, about this period, Lieutenants Rutledge and Spediman were Mohammedanized. The latter cut his own throat between the Mysore gates; and the former, an amiable character, after surviving him about three years, being suspected of correspondence with the English, was sent to Nairandroog, or rock of death, perhaps as unwholesome a spot as any in Asia. If this did not answer the end intended, that of putting a period to his existence, it is highly probable that poison, or the but-ends of muskets, did. This Nairandroog was the place to which the afflicted Hindoos were sent by hundreds.
Whether we were ever demanded by the English, or not, we could not ascertain, seeing nothing of the kind in any public paper, after we made our escape; but we supposed we were, and assigned that as the cause of our being sent to Mysore in such haste.