Simple Magnet Construction.—A simple way to make a pair of magnets for this purpose is shown in Fig. [22]. A piece of round ¾-inch steel core (A), 5½ inches long, is threaded at both ends to receive at one end a nut (B), which is screwed on a sufficient distance so that the end of the core (A) projects a half inch beyond the nut. The other end of the steel core has a pole piece of[p. 40] iron (C) 2" × 2" × 4", with a hole midway between the ends, threaded entirely through, and provided along one side with a concave channel, within which the armature is to turn. Now, before the pole piece (C) is put on, we will slip on a disc (E), made of hard rubber, then a thin rubber tube (F), and finally a rubber disc (G), so as to provide a positive insulation for the wire coil which is wound on the bobbin thus made.
How to Wind.—In practice, and as you go further along in this work, you will learn the value, first, of winding one layer of insulated wire on the spool, coating it with shellac, and then putting on the next layer, and so on; when completely wound, the two wire terminals may be brought out at one end; but for our present purpose, and to render the explanation clearer, the wire terminals are at the opposite ends of the spool (H, H').
The Dynamo Fields.—Two of these spools are so made and they are called the fields of the dynamo.
We will next prepare an iron bar (I), 5 inches long and ½ inch thick and 1½ inches wide, then bore two holes through it so the distance measures 3 inches from center to center. These holes are to be threaded for the ¾-inch cores (A). This bar holds together the upper ends of the cores, as shown in Fig. [23]
We then prepare a base (J) of any hard wood, 2 inches thick, 8 inches long and 8 inches wide,[p. 42] and bore two ¾-inch holes 3 inches apart on a middle line, to receive a pair of ¾-inch cap screws (K), which pass upwardly through the holes in the base and screw into the pole pieces (C). A wooden bar (L), 1½" × 1½", 8 inches long, is placed under each pole piece, which is also provided with holes for the cap screws (K). The lower side of the base (J) should be countersunk, as at M, so the head of the nut will not project. The fields of the dynamo are now secured in position to the base.
