CHAPTER VI.
TEXTILE FABRICS.
Weaving is an art that has been practised from prehistoric times. Grasses, shreds of bark, rushes, bast, &c., were at first woven, and used as articles of dress and coverings such as we see in use to-day among the uncivilised tribes of the world. The loom is also a very ancient invention, and must have been used much earlier than we have any record of it.
One of the oldest varieties of fabrics made in the loom is that of linen, the threads of which are prepared from the fibrous parts of the flax plant stalk. We have not only Biblical evidence of the weaving of linen by the ancient Egyptians, but the actual material itself, which has been proved by the strictest scientific analysis to be the product of the flax plant.
The oldest kind of Egyptian linen was that used for the swathing bands of the mummies, and was formerly known under the erroneous name of byssus, the latter being a material woven from the filaments or beard of the pinna marina, or sea-caterpillar.
The various methods and processes used in the manufacture of linen are well illustrated in the Egyptian paintings and bas-reliefs, such as the beating of the flax, combing, spinning, and weaving in the loom. Some of the Egyptian linen was exceedingly fine in texture and perfect in workmanship: a piece of linen found at Memphis had 540 threads to the inch in the warp.
Linen yarn and the raw flax were exported from Egypt by the Phœnicians and Carthaginians to Greece, Italy, Germany, Spain, and probably to the British Isles. The Greek women wove linen for their garments, as the women of most European countries have done in the ancient and Middle Ages. Germany, Holland, and Belgium have from early times been the chief countries for linen manufacture in Europe. Perhaps at the present day the city of Belfast in Ireland is the most important seat of linen industry in the world, and Dundee in Scotland might claim the second place. For the last two hundred years the linen trade of Ulster has been in a flourishing condition. The English Parliament from the days of William III. to the present time have encouraged and promoted the trade, but the initial success of this industry was owing in a great measure to the skill and energy of Louis Crommelin and the Huguenot colony, who came to the North of Ireland from France after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685), and in the year 1699 finally settled at Lisburn, near Belfast. A similar colony of French Protestants, who were weavers by trade, settled in Scotland in 1727 under their leader, Nicholas d’Assaville.
A great epoch in the history of weaving dates from the time of the invention of the Jacquard machine, which caused a revolution in nearly all branches of weaving. Jean-Marie Jacquard (1752-1834), the inventor of this machine, was a native of Lyons and a silk weaver by trade. The Jacquard machine is attached to any ordinary loom, and its work consists in mechanically selecting and raising the warp threads, when the shuttle passes across the loom, the action being regulated by means of cards with pierced holes through which the lifting cords or needles pass, the holes in the cards being arranged or cut in accordance with the preconceived pattern that ultimately figures in the woven cloth.
The first Jacquard machine used in England was set up in Coventry in the year 1820.
Silk and its manufacture by the Chinese was known and understood from a period anterior to the date of 2700 years before the Christian Era.
Perhaps the first knowledge of silk products in Europe was due to the conquest of Persia and portion of India by Alexander the Great, who came in contact with the Chinese, or some people who lived beyond India, and who had probably worn silken garments. To these people the Greeks gave the general name of the Seres. This name was not only given to the people beyond India by the Romans, but to the silkworm itself. Aristotle, Virgil, Dionysius the Geographer, and later Pausanias, mention the seer or spinning-worm, from which the rich and valuable Oriental garments were made. Pliny says that the Assyrians made silk from the bombyx and taught the art to the inhabitants of the island of Cos. Pamphile, the daughter of Plates, made the finest woven silk in the island of Cos. It is supposed that in the first instance the raw material found its way from China, through India, Persia, and Arabia, to the Grecian Isles, and eventually to Italy and Western Europe. In European countries silk at first was mixed with wool or linen, and garments of this material were worn by the Romans.