Fig. 264.—Arabian Silk Wall Hanging of the Fourteenth Century. J.
Fig. 265.—Apostolic Tree of Life, with the Cross Emblem.
The most interesting development in the design of silk fabrics is that which took place in Sicily. The Sicilians were first taught the art of spinning and weaving of silk and the rearing of the silkworm by their rulers the Saracens of Egypt, and the early designs of the Siculo-Arabian style have, in addition to the Persian cheetahs, Indian parrots, and antelopes, such animals of African origin as the giraffe, elephant, gazelle, and other fauna of that continent. Gold, silver, and cotton threads were used with the silk in these fabrics.
Mention has been made that in the twelfth century, when the Normans conquered Sicily, of their bringing silk weavers from Athens and from other parts of Greece to work at Palermo. Here and at this time (1130) a distinct alteration of the design took place by the introduction of the Greek classic and Christian elements of ornament in mixture with some of the older Saracenic forms.
Mock Arabic inscriptions were also used very much in these Sicilian fabrics; this may have been done by Christian designers ignorant of Arabic, in order to give to the fabrics an appearance of Saracenic work, which, perhaps, made them sell better when exported (Fig. 266).
Another peculiarity of the Palermitan silks is the multitude of elements found in the designs. All kinds of fabulous animals and birds are used as in heraldic blazoning: sunbursts, cloud-forms, Christian emblems and elements occurring as forms of angels with swinging censers, initials of sacred names, and emblematic plants. The use of these heraldic and Christian elements was in a great measure due to the influence of the Crusaders in the Middle Ages. The favourite colouring of the Sicilian silks was dark red grounds and green foliage; the birds, animals, and mythological elements were usually woven in gold threads as in the example given (Fig. 267).
Fig. 266.—Silk Damask; Sicilian; with Imitated Arabic Characters. (R.)
Towards the end of the fourteenth century and during the fifteenth the designs became more floriated, the vine and pomegranate, with vase forms, were used and were really developments from, and did duty for, the sacred tree of the early patterns, and instead of a circular framing the flamboyant or ogival diaper lines were introduced. This repeating framework was derived from the Saracenic Pointed architecture and adopted in the ogival Gothic at this date (Figs. 268, 269).