A designer in one of the big New York houses when asked as to her success in designing becoming dresses for large women gave these few valuable rules:
“I never use sheer flimsy material. If I must use lace, I weight it so that it is as heavy as any fabric.
“I never use coarse stiff material—the softer and weightier the better.
“I rarely use fabrics with luster or with big design.
“I never use pure colors. I use shades chiefly, very seldom a tint, unless it is a cream tint. I avoid all white for my large customers. We see enough big men dressed up in white to know how much it increases size.
“I always make a foundation slip, smooth, sleek and close fitting. In this I sew the sleeves. My dress is made separate and hangs easier and straighter than it possibly could if it had the sleeves to hamper it. Then, too, the dress lasts longer, which is a distinct advantage.
“I give special attention to my customer’s hats, shoes and corsets. All must be right for her or my dress cannot be a success.
“Often if I find a model that is definitely becoming, I vary it in different materials and colors, often making madam a half dozen beautiful gowns from the one block. Why not, if it is most becoming to her?”
CHAPTER VI
ESSENTIAL POINTS IN CUTTING AND FITTING
There are many skilful tricks in dressmaking that are advantageous to the overweight figure. For instance, the shoulder dart allows ease over the bust, makes a more comfortable shoulder, and permits of a close fitting sleeve. It also prevents sagging of the dress at the underarm, giving a neat good fitting effect. Don’t avoid or “detest” darts; learn to use them so that you get the greatest possible advantage from them. Watch an adept dressmaker smooth the material around and slip out the dart in a line over the bust that fits smoothly and easily. Only carelessly fitted and stitched darts are unattractive.