It is well to consider that gray eyes reflect blue or green, and sometimes brown tints, and that the right shade of blue—usually old blue—will emphasize the color and brilliancy of blue eyes. It is said that a girl with hazel eyes and chestnut hair can wear any color becomingly. Yet one must realize that some colors would naturally be much more emphatic or subduing than others; therefore, more becoming or less complimentary. The best rule is to keep to one family of color shades, as brown, blue, gray, or black. You will find this scheme more becoming and more economical. Of course, if you wish, you may choose to use one or two shades lighter of the same color shade, as dark brown and tan, or perhaps the pleasing combination of midnight blue and gray. Gray or tan is good with black; white with black only in the very smallest quantity and then discreetly placed.

But gray, used for an entire costume, is good only for the very young or the old. Once the hair is white, gray is much better than black for it will not emphasize face lines; but a woman of forty, big or little, unless she has white hair and clear skin should choose navy blue or black in preference to gray. However, we need not wear either monotonously.

Many designers insist that “color tone” evidenced somewhere is essential for every well-dressed woman, maintaining that if the individual does not have it herself it must be provided by means of her dress or complexion, assuming, of course, that it will always be discreetly and smartly done. If the hair or eyes are colorless, avoid brown and wear blue, and use definite color—a bit of braid, an ornamental buckle, a strap on a purse, a hat trimming—something that has a smart color note.

We look smallest in dull black, but we can look almost as slender in black that has brightness either in the fabric or the dye, and at the same time not look so old as with the dull black. For example, observe the next dear elderly lady you see in dull black. See how it makes every wrinkle show and gives her a shriveled, meek appearance that is in every way depressing. We must look young, as well as slender, and, of course, fashionable too, so we must keep away from any colors that will hamper us.

CHOOSE THESE SUBTLE SHADES

It has always seemed to me that we women who have the opportunity of making either a pleasing, indifferent, or offending picture of ourselves in our dress should realize our opportunity, sense fully that we are in competition with real artists and work to achieve a degree of perfection that at least would be pleasing to our very own selves and that could not offend any who might see us.

Those valuable laws of optical illusion teach us always to select colors that have a tendency to recede, that is, those that are indefinite and difficult to classify. For instance, the moment rose is added to gray, or yellow to tan, it takes on light and tends to intensify size rather than to reduce it, while we can add white to gray, or brown to tan with the opposite result. So often we see someone who has achieved a beautiful color plan, change it to satisfy her own desire for variety and in the changing lose all that she has worked to gain. And so I insist that once you find the color or combination of colors that is becoming, that is flattering, as to size and complexion, hair and eyes, hold to it as a valued possession and have your color variety in other things rather than your dress.

I have not yet considered white, or rather cream, or old blue, or pastel green in discussing shades. These many of us can wear. The wearing of white is a luxurious habit once acquired. The charm of immaculateness may balance in some minds its tendency to increase size, but if you wish to look as small as possible, avoid it. Of old blue this is not true. It can be worn by old and young, is becoming generally, and is almost as effective as gray in its size reducing propensities. It blends well and is soft enough not to be distinguished at long range, always a point of consideration when we are working to look slender. However, neither gray nor old blue must be worn if the skin is definitely sallow. Pastel green that has a gray, rather than a yellow cast is often becoming, especially for summer wear, for in addition to its advantages regarding size, it is cool looking.

A COLOR GUIDE TO AID YOU IN ATTAINING A SLENDERIZING APPEARANCE

Type of WomanBlackBrownBlueGreenGrayPurplePink
Pink Blonde
Fair hair; blue, gray, or brown eyes; white skin, moderate color.Very good in dull surfaced fabrics.Bronze and warm tans, very good. Dark tones permissible.Excellent. Greenish and navy blue very good; also medium tones to repeat color of blue eyes.Gray-green good; also soft blue-green both medium and dark.Dark, blue-gray very good.Orchid fair; also, blue-violet in sheer soft fabrics. Red purple may be used in small quantities.Flesh and dull old rose permissible.
Pale Blonde
Fair hair; blue, gray, or brown eyes; white skin with little or no color.May be worn with white or cream collar.Dark red-brown permissible.Excellent in dark shades and old blue.Very pale green good.Dark, blue-gray good.Orchid good; fuchsia, good for trimming.Flesh, good; also dull old rose.
Titian Blonde
Fair hair, bordering on red; blue, brown, or gray eyes; fair skin, moderate color.Excellent.Dark tones and bronze good if eyes are brown.Dark tones excellent; or medium blue if eyes are blue.Almond and reseda good; avoid bright tones.Stone-gray and taupe good. Blue-gray good.Very dull orchid good.Pastel tones in sheer material, good.
Medium Blonde
Light brown hair; blue, brown, or gray eyes; medium complexion.Best relieved by cream color.Bronze and medium tan good.Very good in dark and medium tones.Dark green and reseda good.Silver-gray permissible.Moderately good for trimming if skin is clear.Flesh and peach may be worn.
Olive Blonde
Light brown hair; brown, blue, or gray eyes; skin inclined to sallowness.Good, if used with contrasting color.Very dark tones may be worn.Dark tones excellent.Bottle-green good.Very dark taupe good.Pinkish tones in sheer material permissible.Creamy flesh and peach color fair.
Clear Brunette
Dark or medium brown hair; dark blue, gray, or brown eyes; fair, clear skin, with some color.Excellent, especially with white.Very good for brown-eyed type; tan good.Dark tones good with bright trimming. Medium blue fair.Dark green good. Blue-green for blue-eyed type; bronze-green for brown eyes.Permissible for a dress that is smartly designed and trimmed.Orchid good; fuchsia may be used in small quantities.Rose permissible as trimming.
Pale Brunette
Medium, dark brown or black hair; brown, gray, or dark blue eyes; pale skin.Do not use except with bright color for trimming.Excellent with brown eyes; warm tan good.Dark tones very good; green-blues good.Dark green excellent. Blue-green for blue eyes and bronze-green for brown eyes.Warm taupe permissible.Dull orchid; also, pink tones of violet.Flesh, dull rose and peach good.
Colorful Brunette
Medium brown or dark hair; blue, brown, or gray eyes; medium skin, high color.Very good.Most browns excellent for brown-eyed type.Dark blue excellent; green-blue good.Very good in dark tones. Bronze-green excellent with brown eyes.Blue-gray and taupe good.Avoid all except bluish hues.
Auburn Brunette
Brown hair, tinged with red; brown, blue or gray eyes; medium skin.Transparent black good.All pure browns that blend with hair and eyes good.Navy blue and green-blues very good.Bronze-green excellent; also, medium reseda.Good, if skin is clear.Plum color and palest lavender permissible.Flesh and pale pink good.
Olive Brunette
Dark brown or black hair; brown or black eyes; olive skin, some color.Permissible if worn with cream collar.Mahogany and deepest browns moderately good.Good in darkest tones.Bronze-green permissible.Taupe may be worn in rare cases.Pink lavender in sheer fabric or dahlia in small quantities fair.Dull pink and apricot tones good.
Gray and Gray
Gray hair; brown, gray, or blue eyes; medium skin.Permissible if worn with cream collar. Good in dark and medium tones. Delft blue good for blue eyes.Permissible in darkest tones.Silver-gray good.Soft pink lavender good; also dark tones.Flesh and old rose very good.
Brown and Gray
Grayish, brown hair; brown, blue, or gray eyes; medium skin.Permissible with cream collar.Seal and chestnut good. Avoid all tans.Dull blue, very good; brighter blues good for trimming.Dark tones moderately good. Avoid gray-green.Dark grays brightened by trimming, permissible.Avoid unless skin is very clear and hair almost white.Creamy-flesh good. Avoid rose hues.