If your wish be rest,
Lettuce and cowslip wine, probatum est.

Sorrel is under the influence of Venus, and Gerarde declares that also ‘the carrot serveth for love matters; and Orpheus, as Pliny writeth, said that the use hereof winneth love.’ Flowers of rosemary, rue, sage, marjoram, fennel, and quince preserve youth; worn over the heart they give gaiety. Rosemary is an herb of the sun, while Venus first raised sweet marjoram, therefore young married couples are crowned with it in Greece. While

‘He that eats sage in May
Shall live for aye.’[3]

[3] For interesting information about plants see Plant Lore, Legends, and Lyrics, by R. Folkard, Jun. Sampson Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, London, 1884.

Sweet basil is often worn by the Italian maidens in their bosoms, as it is supposed to engender sympathy, and borage makes men merry and joyful.

For years English friends have begged recipes for cooking vegetables in the Italian fashion, so I have written down many of the following from the dictation of our good Giuseppe Volpi, whose portrait, by Mr. A. H. Hallam Murray, adorns this little book, and who has been known to our friends for over thirty years.

I must also acknowledge, with thanks, the courtesy of Sigri. Fratelli Ingegnoli of Milan, who have permitted me to use and translate what I needed from their excellent little book Come si Cucinano i Legumi.

Janet Ross.
Poggio Gherardo,
Florence.

CONTENTS

PAGE
[Preface][vii-xiii]
[Introduction][1-4]
[Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul’][5]
[ ” ” (maigre)][5]
[ ” ‘Farciti’][6]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][7]
[ ” ‘alla Francese’][7]
[ ” ‘Fritti.’ No. 1][7]
[ ” ” No. 2][8]
[ ” ‘alla Graticola’][8]
[ ” ‘all’ Italiana’][9]
[ ” ‘alla Lionese’][9]
[ ” ‘alla Milanese’][9]
[ ” ‘alla Spagnuola’][10]
[ ” ‘al Vapore’][10]
[Asparagus ‘alla Borghese’][11]
[ ” ‘alla Casalinga’][11]
[ ” cold][11]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][12]
[ ” ‘Fritto’][12]
[ ” ‘ai Gamberi’][13]
[Asparagus ‘in Istufato’][13]
[ ” tips ‘all’ Italiana’][13]
[ ” ‘all’ Olandese’][14]
[ ” ‘alla Parmigiana’][14]
[ ” ‘Perlate’][14]
[ ” tips ‘alla Suprema’][15]
[ ” on Toast. No. 1][15]
[ ” ” No. 2][16]
[ ” ‘alla Wilhelmina’][16]
[Beans (Broad) ‘al Burro’][17]
[ ” ” ‘alla Romana’][17]
[ ” ” ‘alla Turca’][18]
[ ” ” ‘al Vino’][18]
[ ” (French) ‘al Burro’][18]
[ ” ” ‘alla Crema.’ No. 1][19]
[ ” ” ” No. 2][19]
[ ” ” ‘allo Zabajone’][19]
[ ” (Haricots) ‘alla Bruna’][20]
[ ” ” Croquettes of][20]
[ ” ” ‘alla Fiorentina’][21]
[ ” ” ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel’][21]
[ ” ” ‘alla Milanese’][21]
[ ” ” ‘alla Polenta’][22]
[ ” ” ‘Purée alla Brétonne’][22]
[ ” ” ‘alla Romana’][22]
[ ” ” ‘sautés’][23]
[ ” (Lima) ‘alla Crema’][23]
[ ” (Dwarf Lima) ‘alla Portugese’][23]
[ ” (Scarlet Runners) ‘alla Panna’][24]
[Beet Leaves boiled][24]
[ ” ‘Gnocchi’][24]
[Beetroot (How to boil)][25]
[ ” ‘alla Panna’][25]
[ ” and Potatoes][26]
[Broccoli ‘alla Crema’][26]
[ ” ‘alla Parmigiana’][27]
[ ” with White Sauce][27]
[Brussels Sprouts ‘alla Crema’][28]
[ ” ” ‘al Limone’][28]
[ ” ” ‘sautés’][28]
[Cabbage (How to boil)][29]
[ ” ‘farcito all’ Americana’][29]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][30]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][30]
[ ” ‘Fritto’][31]
[ ” ‘all’ Uovo’][31]
[ ” ‘Pasticciato’][31]
[ ” ‘in Stufato’][32]
[ ” (Red) ‘alla Fiamminga’][32]
[ ” ” ‘alla Tedesca’][32]
[Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ No. 1][33]
[ ” ” No. 2][33]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][34]
[Cardoons ‘al Bianco’][34]
[ ” ‘alla Milanese’][35]
[Carrots ‘all’ Aceto’][35]
[ ” ‘alla Béchamel’][35]
[ ” ‘alla Casalinga’][36]
[ ” ‘alla Panna’][36]
[ ” ‘Sautées’][37]
[ ” ‘in Stufato’][37]
[ ” ‘allo Zucchero’][38]
[Cauliflower ‘al Borghese’][38]
[ ” ‘al Burro’][39]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][39]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][39]
[ ” ‘al Fritto’][40]
[ ” ‘al Gratin’][40]
[ ” ‘alla Piemontese’][41]
[ ” ‘in Stufato’][41]
[Celery ‘alla Crema’][41]
[ ” ‘al Fritto’][42]
[ ” ‘all’ Italiana’][42]
[ ” ‘alla Parmigiana’][43]
[ ” ‘al Pomidoro’][43]
[ ” stewed][43]
[Cucumbers ‘alla Béchamel’][44]
[ ” ‘alla Comasca’][44]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][44]
[ ” ‘Farciti’][45]
[ ” ‘in Istufato’][45]
[ ” ‘alla Panna’][46]
[ ” ‘alla Spagnuola’][46]
[Cucumbers ‘alla Toscana’][46]
[ ” ‘all’ Uova’][47]
[Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Farcite’][47]
[ ” ” ‘al Forno’][48]
[ ” ” ‘Fritto’][48]
[ ” ” ‘alla Griglia’][48]
[ ” ” ‘Sauté’][49]
[Flan of Celery][49]
[ ” Potatoes][49]
[ ” Vegetables][50]
[Fritto Misto][50]
[ ” of Vegetables][51]
[Jerusalem Artichokes ‘al Bianco’][51]
[ ” ” in Purée][52]
[Leeks ‘alla Casalinga’][52]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][53]
[ ” ‘alla Salza Bianca’][53]
[Lentils ‘alla Corona’][53]
[ ” ‘in Istufato’][54]
[ ” ‘alla Provenzale’][54]
[ ” ‘Purée’][55]
[ ” ‘al Riso’][55]
[Lettuce ‘Farcite’][55]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][56]
[ ” ‘alla Spagnuola’][56]
MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES
[Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel’][57]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][57]
[ ” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1][58]
[ ” ” No. 2][58]
[ ” ” No. 3][58]
[ ” ‘au Gratin’][59]
[ ” ‘all’ Italiana’][59]
[ ” ‘al Latte’][60]
[ ” ‘alla Napolitana’][60]
[ ” ‘alla Quaresima’][61]
[ ” ‘alla Semplice’][61]
[ ” ‘alla Siciliana’][61]
[ ” ‘Timbale alla Milanese’][62]
[ ” ‘Timbale alla Napolitana’][63]
OTHER PASTES
[Agnelotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’][63]
[Crescioni][64]
[Gnocchi ‘alla Romana’][65]
[ ” of Semolina][65]
[Pappardelle with Hare][66]
[Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe’][66]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][67]
[ ” ‘all’ Italiana’][67]
[ ” ‘alla Napolitana’][68]
[ ” ‘Timbaletti di’][68]
[Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio’][69]
[Tagliatelle with Ham][69]
[ ” ‘alla Romagnola’][70]
[ ” with Sausages][70]
[Tortelli][71]
[Macedoine of Vegetables][71]
[Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) ‘al Burro’][72]
[ ” (Porcini) ‘alla Casalinga’][72]
[ ” (Pratajuoli) ‘alla Crema’][72]
[ ” (Porcini) ‘alla Francese’][73]
[ ” ” Fried. No. 1][73]
[ ” ” ” No. 2][74]
[ ” ” Grilled][74]
[ ” ” ‘all’ Intingolo’][74]
[ ” (Prugnuoli) ‘alla Spagnuola’][75]
[ ” (Dormienti) ‘al Sugo’][75]
[ ” (Pratajuoli) on Toast][76]
[ ” (Porcini) with Tomato Sauce][76]
[ ” (Ovoli) ‘Trippati’][76]
[Onions ‘Farcite’][77]
[ ” ‘Fried’][77]
[ ” ‘Glacés’][77]
[ ” Small White][78]
[ ” ‘in Stufato’][78]
[Parsnips ‘alla Crema’][79]
[ ” ‘al Forno’][79]
[ ” ‘Fritte’][80]
[ ” ‘Sautés’][80]
[Peas ‘all’ Antica’][80]
[ ” ‘alla Borghese’][81]
[ ” ‘al Burro’][81]
[ ” ‘alla Consommé’][81]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][81]
[ ” ‘alla Francese.’ No. 1][82]
[ ” ” ” No. 2][82]
[ ” ‘al Buon Gusto’][83]
[ ” ‘all’ Inglese’][83]
[Pea Omelette][83]
[Pease-pudding][84]
[Peas in their Pods][85]
[ ” ‘allo Stufato’][85]
[ ” ‘allo Zucchero’][85]
[Polenta Dabs][86]
[ ” ‘alla Parmigiana’][86]
[ ” with Sausages][86]
[Potatoes boiled][87]
[ ” ‘alla Borghese’][87]
[ ” ‘alla Campagnuola’][87]
[ ” ‘in Casseruola’][88]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][88]
[ ” Croquettes. No. 1][88]
[ ” ” No. 2][89]
[ ” ‘Farcite’][89]
[ ” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1][90]
[ ” ” No. 2][90]
[ ” ‘in Frittata’ (Omelette)][90]
[ ” ‘alla Semplicità’][91]
[ ” ‘Fritti alla Francese’][91]
[Potatoes ‘in Frittura’][91]
[Potato ‘Gnocchi’][92]
[Potatoes ‘all’ Italiana’][92]
[ ” ‘alla Gran Duchessa’][93]
[ ” ‘alla Lionese’][93]
[ ” ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel’][94]
[ ” ‘all’ Olandese’][94]
[ ” ‘alla Panna’][94]
[Potato Pudding][95]
[ ” ” with Mushrooms][95]
[Potatoes ‘in Ragout’][96]
[ ” ‘Arrostite’ (Roasted)][96]
[ ” ‘Sautées’][97]
[ ” ‘in Stufato’][97]
[ ” ‘Tartufate’][97]
[ ” ‘all’ Umido’][98]
[Pumpkins ‘alla Fiorentina’][98]
[ ” ‘Fritti’][98]
[Pumpkin Pudding][99]
[Pumpkins ‘Ripiene.’ No. 1][99]
[ ” ” (Maigre). No. 2][100]
[Rice (How to Cook)][100]
[ ” ‘alla Casalinga’][101]
[ ” Croquettes][101]
[ ” with Tomatoes. No. 1][102]
[ ” ” ” No. 2][103]
[ ” with Prawns][103]
[ ” with Quails][104]
[ ” ‘alla Ristori’][104]
[Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 1][104]
[ ” ” No. 2][105]
[ ” with Peas][105]
[ ” ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’][106]
SALADS
[Artichoke Salad][106]
[Beetroot Salad][107]
[Broccoli Salad][107]
[Cabbage Salad][107]
[‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad][107]
[Cauliflower Salad][108]
[Celery Salad][108]
[Cucumber and Tomato Salad][108]
[‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad][109]
[French Beans Salad][109]
[‘All’ Italiana’ Salad][109]
[Lettuce Salad][109]
[ ” ” ‘alla Francese’][110]
[ ” ” with Veal (or Fish)][110]
[‘Alla Macedoine’ Salad][111]
[‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad][111]
[Potato Salad. No. 1][111]
[ ” ” No. 2][112]
[ ” ” No. 3][112]
[ ” ” No. 4][113]
[‘Alla Russa’ Salad][113]
[Spanish Onion Salad][113]
[Summer Salad. No. 1][114]
[ ” ” No. 2][114]
[Tomato Salad. No. 1][114]
[ ” ” No. 2][115]
[ ” ” No. 3][115]
[ ” ” No. 4][115]
[ ” ” No. 5][116]
[ ” Jelly Salad][116]
[Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of)][117]
[Watercress Salad][117]
SAUCES
[Roux for Sauces][117]
[Agro Dolce Sauce][118]
[Bearnese Sauce][118]
[Béchamel Sauce. No. 1][119]
[ ” ” No. 2][119]
[ ” ” No. 3][119]
[ ” ” (Maigre) No. 4][120]
[Broccoli (Sauce for)][120]
[Caper Sauce][121]
[ ” ” ‘alla Genovese’][121]
[ ” ” ‘alla Milanese’][121]
[ ” ” (Cold)][122]
[Butter Sauce. No. 1][122]
[ ” ” No. 2 (Melted Butter)][122]
[Francese Sauce][123]
[Lombarda Sauce][123]
[Mayonnaise Sauce][123]
[ ” ” ‘alla Monte Bianco’][124]
[ ” ” ‘alla Ravigote’][124]
[Olandese Sauce][124]
[‘Alla Panna’ Sauce][125]
[Suprema Sauce. No. 1][125]
[ ” ” No. 2][125]
[Tartara Sauce. No. 1][126]
[ ” ” No. 2][126]
[Tomato Sauce. No. 1][126]
[ ” ” No. 2][127]
[Ve lutata Sauce][127]
[Sorrel Purée][128]
[ ” ” (Maigre)][128]
[ ” ” Stewed][128]
SOUPS
[Artichoke Soup][128]
[ ” ” (Purée)][129]
[Asparagus Soup][129]
[Carrot Soup][130]
[Chestnut Soup][130]
[Lentil Soup. No. 1][130]
[ ” ” No. 2][131]
[Lettuce Soup][131]
[Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale’][132]
[ ” ” ‘alla Romana’][132]
[Pumpkin Soup. No. 1][132]
[ ” ” No. 2][133]
[Onion Soup. No. 1][133]
[ ” ” ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ No. 2][134]
[Palestine Soup][134]
[Pea Soup][134]
[Polentina ‘alla Veneziana’][135]
[Sorrel Soup][135]
[Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese’][135]
[Tomato Soup. No. 1][136]
[ ” ” (Maigre) No. 2][136]
[Turnip Soup][137]
[Vegetable Soup (Mixed)][137]
[Vegetable and Cream Soup][137]
[Spinach ‘al Burro’][138]
[ ” ‘alla Crema’][138]
[ ” Croquettes][138]
[ ” ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina’][139]
[ ” Fried][139]
[ ” Pudding with Mushrooms][140]
[ ” ‘in Riccioli’][140]
[ ” Soufflé][141]
[Tomatoes Broiled][141]
[ ” ‘in Conchiglia’][142]
[ ” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1][142]
[ ” ” No. 2][142]
[ ” ” No. 3][143]
[ ” ‘Fritti’][143]
[ ” ‘alla Graticola’][144]
[ ” Iced][144]
[ ” ‘all’ Indiana’][144]
[ ” ‘al Pane’][144]
[ ” Pudding][145]
[Tomatoes in Purée][145]
[ ” ‘Ripieni’][146]
[ ” ‘al Riso’][146]
[ ” Stewed][146]
[ ” ‘in Umido’][147]
[ ” ‘con Uova’][147]
[Truffles in Champagne][147]
[ ” and Cheese][148]
[ ” Maigre][148]
[ ” in Omelette][148]
[ ” ‘alla Panna’][149]
[ ” ‘Sautés’][149]
[ ” Stewed][150]
[ ” ‘sul tovagliolo’][150]