* * * *
Most of the inhabitants seemed to rather pity my case. They were of opinion I might, if determined succeed in reaching Alice Springs, in the MacDonnell ranges—and there find myself cornered. The district doctor (a gentleman well spoken of and respected by all) rather seriously advised me: "Be careful. Think well before you venture beyond 'The Alice.'"
But the time for thinking had passed; and I left Oodnadatta, though not in the best of spirits, with my eyes still weak, and with very hazy notions indeed of what there might be awaiting me in the country beyond.
* * * *
To Macumba the track, with the exception of a few miles of sand to finish up with, is fair for cycling on—low stony tablelands and a few small hills. The channel of the Alberga River is wide, sandy, and lined with healthy-looking gum trees. Water is generally to be found in the Stevenson River—another large gum-lined creek, on the northernmost bank of which Macumba store is situated.
This place is only 38 miles from Oodnadatta, but I remained here an afternoon and night, as there was prospect of gathering information as to the route. An obliging teamster who knew the country well worked out and presented me with a very useful map.
From here up everyone knows everybody else for hundreds of miles around; and no one has a large circle of acquaintance, even then.
* * * *
In the neighbourhood of Macumba snakes and snake-tracks are much in evidence. Between the Strangways sandhills and Alice Springs I rode over at the very least half a dozen reptiles. Each one acted in a way peculiar to its species or its mood, so that the traveller, not knowing in any case what may happen next, has the spice of excitement added to his journeyings. Yet no doubt one might pass through, and see no snakes at all. For many months of the year they are in hiding. The weather and the season must be propitious else they do not appear.