I am decidedly opposed to anything approaching in style or shape the bloomer costume; the present style of outside dress cannot possibly be improved for a comely garment, but it is underneath this that an entire change should be speedily effected. The divided skirt is cut like drawers that have a width of thirty to forty inches of goods in each leg. I believe that the width of each leg should not be more than twenty-five to thirty inches; this makes the skirt warmer and lighter. This is not attached to a band to fasten around the waist, but to a yoke, which should be buttoned to the bodice waist, suspending the skirt from the shoulders. The material will be a matter of individual taste; the two qualities that should be always looked for are softness and warmth, and for that reason Jersey flannel and ladies’ cloth are the most suitable material; in summer or warm climates, pongee or wash silks may be substituted.
The skirt is cut on the bias to fit the hips, where it is fulled in and attached to a yoke instead of a band and in the back it laps about two or three inches. The advantage of the divided skirt is that it protects the limbs and body against drafts and cold emanations, and takes the place of all underskirts and petticoats. This skirt alone, however, would be insufficient to accomplish all that is desired by way of guarding against exposures; for this reason there is also a so-called Union suit worn under the divided skirt to complete the covering of the limbs.
Union suits, as the name implies, unite a pair of closely-fitting drawers with an undershirt. There is no particular advantage in uniting the underdrawers with the undershirt, but there is certainly no disadvantage. The principal object that is to be attained is not in unionizing drawers and shirts, but wearing such closely fitting undergarments that the extremities are permanently protected, and in having them so lapped or closed that the abdomen and pelvic organs are securely protected against cold.
Equestrian tights are made on the same principle and for a similar purpose as union suits, namely, to properly and surely cover the limbs and in a measure displace the great load of petticoats that women usually wear. They come in drawers and also in combination suits with the undershirts; a choice may be left to individual taste. There are different brands of these goods on sale in all the dry goods stores of our large cities, the prices being regulated by material and quality of the goods from which they are made. The woolen goods are preferable for practical purposes.
Women who do not like the woven closely-fitting drawers can take their choice between the latter and home-made flannel drawers, the French flannel for the lighter and the English bully for heavier and warmer clothing will be found to be the most serviceable materials; patterns for making up closed or button drawers may be had at the leading pattern stores of any city.
Women who cannot grow up to an appreciation of the divided skirt should by all means wear equestrian tights or buttoned flannel drawers, under cotton or linen ones; this will enable them to throw off one or two petticoats or skirts because the drawers will safely substitute the skirts and be much lighter. Some women dread the absence of skirts on account of appearing too scant; a little extra fullness and drapery to the dress make the absence of skirts not noticeable. If this were not quite so, there appears no satisfactory reason why a woman should feel embarrassed to modestly display the contour of her form any less than a man.
CHAPTER XV.
METRITIS OR INFLAMMATION OF THE WOMB.